에어브러쉬 도색 초보자를 위한 간단강좌 1 [영어 자막]


Hi everyone This time is… foreigner airbrush basic… I suck at English This video is dedicated to non-Korean speaking viewers because there are quite a lot of foreign viewers on my channel (Korean viewers are welcome to watch as well) About a few thousand viewers? So this video is mainly for foreign beginners in collaboration with my translator; Po Ro So let’s start: Airbrush Tutorial for Foreign Beginners Feel free to skip this video if you are an experienced user So here’s the airbrush This one is PS-289 by Mr.Hobby aka GSI creos or Gunze PS-289; a 0.3mm airbrush I use this one the most along with… this one I got this recently and it’s produced by Mr.Hobby as well PS-290; a 0.5mm airbrush You can see 0.5 engraved here This airbrush’s special feature is with its nozzle cap that allows you to spray in a linear pattern and that’s helpful when you have to cover large surface areas So I got this quite recently And I strongly recommend this product It’s really convenient when you have to paint large parts like shields With this 0.3mm and 0.5mm airbrushes You will have no issue painting most models; including big scales, gunpla, auto-mobiles kits And here’s another one: Infinity airbrush a 0.2mm and 0.4mm airbrush The cool thing about this is that You can change the caliber of this airbrush by swapping the nozzle Currently it’s on 0.4mm mode But I don’t really use this nowadays thanks to 0.3 and 0.5 mm airbrushes I have this airbrush too; PS-266 by Mr.Hobby again This one has 0.5mm too Like this one But this one’s a trigger type also this airbrush sprays a lot more paint at the same time compared to PS-266 allowing you to paint larger surfaces more evenly Personally I put the pressure at 1.5 bar when I paint 1.5 bar is approximately about 20 psi So if you have just started and have no clue simply set the pressure to 1.5 bar or 20 psi and if your airbrush model has a regulator like this here just fully open it don’t bother tweaking it at the moment and just leave it alone with the pressure set at 1.5 bar, pour the paint in I personally Like in most Asian countries like Korea, Japan, Taiwan, etc use lacquer paints But I heard that it’s difficult to get lacquer paints in European countries So they use acrylic paints instead but I’ll talk mainly about lacquer paints For lacquer paints, the thinning ratio about 1:1.5 1 part paint and 1.5 part thinner Same applies for surfacer, colour paints, clear paints, etc with 1:1.5 thinning ratio I keep thinned paints in this kind of nozzle-capped bottles and just pour the paints from here This paint is Gaianote’s black surfacer with 1:1.5 thinning ratio 1.5 bar And for the trigger, first, lock the trigger when it’s about half way like this then loosen the lock a bit more Like this I haven’t sanded this one but I usually clean the surface with 800 grit sandpaper but know that the grittiness of an abrasive differs per company Some might be a lot more rough compared to other products The one I use is produced by a Korean company I’m not sure if you will be able to get this but this is the one; “Extreme Sandpaper” so 800 grit of Extreme Sandpaper I polish the surface with this first and spray surfacer over it to remove any scratch marks You can use 400 600 grits if you need have to sand it a lot and then use 800 grit for final polish I think 1000 and 1200 grits are unnecessary Again, know that the grittiness differs per company e.g.Tamiya Sandpaper and Extreme Sandpaper have completely different standards so be careful Anyways, once you polish the surface brush off any dusts or even better, rinse it with water & neutral detergent but just brushing it off will do in most cases However, you should rinse it if you have oily hands or you’ve been touching the plastic surface a lot Otherwise, keep it simple you won’t have too much problems as long as you’ve polished it thoroughly Sanding the surface make increases the durability of the paint by making the surface rough and gritty, it creates a gap for the paint to get stuck and hold onto the surface This is possible because lacquer paints are very strong and corrosive especially the thinners that it slightly melts the plastic surface when it touches it The melt isn’t visible in naked eyes but very slightly and that allows the paint to stick to the surface as it dries That’s how lacquer paints work So if you spray lacquer paints on glass or metallic surfaces, like this the paints will easily peel off because glass and metals do not react to lacquer thinners and won’t melt thus the paints won’t be able to stick to the surface If you want to paint such surfaces, you will have to spray primers beforehand like metal primers and paint over that For plastics, you don’t even need a surfacer to be honest but we apply surfacers because it is good at filling in visible gaps and scratches in the surface Particles in normal paints are too small compared to surfacers and cannot hide all the scratch marks so we use surfacers first to hide them And there’s another reason for using a surfacer Imagine that you have two parts in two different colours and you want to apply same colour over it e.g. red but if you apply red over yellow and pink surfaces you will have two different colours at the end due to different base colours and normal lacquer paints are not good at covering the base colour but surfacers are good at covering base colours for example, you will get two black parts with black surfacers or grey parts with grey surfacers that way you’ll achieve an even red colour for both parts That’s the main reason for using a surfacer Honestly, the increased durability of the painted surface with the use of a surfacer is not very obvious Normal lacquer paints are durable enough and won’t peel off easily so you don’t have to worry about durability too much Next, moving on to the spraying distance Length of average man’s middle finger is about right that’s the maximum distance do not go any further but it’s OK to go a bit closer so about this much distance I personally go a bit closer Also before spraying the paint, Blow out any dusts on the surface with just air And then we can spray When you spray the paint, do not start pulling the trigger on the surface pull it outside and move in towards the surface create a wet coat Like this Even though the surfacer itself is flat it should be glossy like when you spray it and become flat overtime as it dries out So when you are spraying a paint whether it be glossy, flat, surfacer or clear, etc the surface should be glossy and wet-looking at the moment of spray You can see the surface becoming flat now Same should happen with any flat paints Never do a light coat Always go for a wet, glossy coat You can see that all the glossiness have disappeared When you touch the surface the surface should be smooth without any roughness or sandiness Otherwise something is wrong Same principle applies to all paints; surfacer, normal, clear, etc You should get a smooth surface Light or dry coating often leave you with a rough & grainy surface that you can see and feel and you don’t want that And those are the basics of painting with airbrush All we have to do now is paint the primary colour over this So this video was for my foreign viewers talking about the basics of painting with airbrush And there will be more of these tutorials coming in the future talking about intermediate leveled stuff like achieving a super-high gloss or candy coating I’ll be uploading a few more videos dedicated to foreign viewers shortly So keep an eye out for it and thank you for subscribing to my channel Thank you!

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