Airbrush Tutorial: Which Airbrush?


Airbrush How-to: Which Airbrush? Wicked Art Airbrush Studio Airbrush equipment, what do you need?
For starters, you obviously need an airbrush. There’s a lot of options out
there and there’s also a lot of knock-offs. So, my advice is to do some
research before you make a purchase and stick with well-known brands because in
the end it comes down to you, the individual artist, how the brush performs
and how it feels in your hands. But regardless of which brand you choose, you
want to make sure you get a double-action airbrush. There are single
action airbrushes available, but they don’t offer the same level of control as
a double-action airbrush. Now I’ve been airbrushing for more than 25 years now.
So, I’ve tried a lot of different airbrushes in that time period. I can’t say
I’ve tried every single airbrush out there, but I’ve tried a lot of them and I
always go back to my Iwata’s. Again, this is all personal preference and it’s just
my opinion based on my own experience, but I’m sharing with you what I’ve found
works for me. So, when the opportunity to try a different brush comes along take
it. You might find that that brush performs better in your hands than what
you’ve been using. This is the Iwata HP-CS Eclipse gravity-feed airbrush. It has a 0.35 millimeter needle and nozzle and this is my workhorse. It’s my
go-to brush. This is the brush I started airbrushing with and I would say I use it
for easily 90% of what I do. Iwata also offers the HP-BCS Eclipse.
It’s a siphon feed airbrush with a 0.5 millimeter needle and nozzle. Now I
prefer gravity feed over siphon feed simply because the gravity feed is
easier to keep clean. I’ll leave links in the description below where you can
purchase the Eclipse gravity feed airbrush. And there’s two options, you can
buy the brush alone, or you can buy the brush that comes with an air hose. I
personally don’t like the hard plastic air hose that comes with the airbrush. I
prefer a braided nylon hose for purposes that we’ll cover in
another video later, but I’ll leave a link to the braided nylon air hose in the
description as well. So, how does a double-action airbrush work? It’s
relatively simple. Push down on the trigger to start the airflow. Pull back on the
trigger to start the paint. Push the trigger forward to stop the
paint and release the trigger to stop the air. The number one rule in
airbrushing is the air is always on! So again, turn the air on by pushing down
on the trigger. I’ll rock back on the trigger a little bit, it doesn’t take
very much at all, and then I rock the trigger forward to stop the paint flow. And you’ll notice, the air has been on
the entire time. That’s the basics. Keeping the air on does a couple of
things. If you’re just starting out it gives you one less thing to think about.
If you keep the air on you can focus your attention on learning the other
fundamentals, like how far do I need to pull the trigger back to get the desired
amount of paint. Keeping the air on also helps to reduce
tip dry. What is tip dry? Airflow adds in drying paint. And there’s constantly
air and paint flowing through your airbrush. So, at some… at some point, some
of that paint will dry on the end of your needle which causes poor
performance. So tip dry is part of airbrushing. It’s gonna happen. There’s
nothing you can do to completely prevent it, but if you have a habit of shutting
off the air before you shut off the paint, it’s going to happen more
frequently. I get asked a lot about going to a smaller needle and nozzle set, or
even a different airbrush altogether. For example, a Micron. Now don’t get me wrong,
Microns are amazing airbrushes and they have their place. I actually own two. But,
here’s the reality based on my experience and in my opinion. Until
you’ve spent the time and the effort required to develop good fundamentals
and ultimately control of your airbrush, it’s not very likely that you’re gonna
see any improvement by changing to a smaller needle and nozzle, or a much more
expensive, “detail-oriented” airbrush. On the flip side of that, once you have
spent that time and effort to develop that kind of control you’ll have the
ability to pull off some amazing detail with any quality airbrush. I can render
some pretty fine detail with just my 0.35 millimeter Eclipse. So, I hope this
information has helped you out. I’ll cover air compressors in another
video and then we’ll get into the fundamentals, what you need to practice
and how I recommend that you practice them. So, thanks for watching!

One comment

  • John Pol

    I just bought a NEO trigger airbrush with a # 3 needle and just bought some 2K clear from Tamco with the hardner and reduser any tips on how to mix it PSI etc. any help would be great before I start using the stuff on my models

    Reply

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