APPROACHES TO COLOR MODULATION. Episode 1. Applying a basecoat.
Hello, This is Adam Wilder Let’s paint a Jagdpanzer. But I think it’s important that we begin this series of videos by looking at a bit on airbrushing as it plays a crucial role with this approach. Acrylics are the preferred paints by most molders to apply for basecoats. This is because they stand up well to the enamel pants and thinners used during the weathering stages of the replica. It is difficult to apply an opaque coat when brushing acrylics. Even after a few layers you still need to apply more. On the other hand an airbrush easily allows you to spay and even layer with acrylics when your air from the compressor is adjusted right and the paint is properly thinned. When airbrushing you will also need more than one layer. But every successive coat will cover surface more evenly. Now we can compare the difference in the results. But, for this example I will be using Tamiya paints. I am going to first lighten the dark yellow to make it more suitable for a 1/35th scale model. To do this we are going to mix the dark yellow with some Deck Tan, Gloss White and some Clear Yellow. The tone will be mixed and then stored in this spare jar. As with all paints, after stirring up the settled pigments, screw the lid back onto the jar and shake it well. The Gloss White will give more of a satin finish to the basecoat. The Clear Yellow will do the same while also adding a bit of color that was lost when lighting the tone with the Deck Tan and the white colors. I normally use lacquer thinner to thin Tamiya paints. Usually I dilute the mix to about 1 part paint and 2.5 to 3 parts thinner. With experience you will be able to tell if the paint is thinned enough by watching how quickly it runs down the inner side of the jar. With our mixed dark yellow jarred and ready I added liquid mask to all of the places where parts such as the running gear would be glued once the model was painted. Mask was also applied to the glazed areas of the clear periscopes and binoculars. Blow air over the model to remove any unwanted dust that might affect the basecoat. Always keep your airbrush angled and in motion when spraying large areas. You will need to airbrush the areas from different angles ensuring that you get an even coat completely covering all of the details. A double-action airbrush is good for these tasks because it allows you to regulate the flow of paint when spraying hard to reach areas. One of the advantages to airbrushing Tamiya paints is their ability to evenly cover a surface. You can start applying the second coat almost immediately after you have finished the first one. You can reduce the time needed for the paint to dry by blowing it with air from the airbrush. Remember to rotate the model between coats in order to evenly cover all of the details. Keeping your airbrush at an angle will prevent any overspray from building up in the corners creating unwanted texture. I usably set the regulator on my air compressor to about 18 to 20 PSI when airbrushing Tamiya paints. And again, always keep the airbrush in motion. Note how the airbrush is always angled allowing the overspray to blow away from the surface. This concludes airbrushing the basecoat onto the hull. In the next episode we will look at methods for airbrushing the rest of the details such as the running gear, hatches and skirts. Please like this video and subscribe to this channel. And don’t forget to check out the links below. See you next time