BJD Project Update: Chubby/Curvy BJD Body [CC]

Hello, this is Sea Hedgehog, and you’re here again on my channel. A Jest in Sober Earnest. I just got out of the shower, but I wanted to share what I’d gotten done over this weekend. It’s not what I thought I was going to get done, I thought I was going to do some dremeling, but I actually did a lot of sanding and painting. I guess, both my cats have shown up. This one is surprisingly happy for having been given a bath. She got her hind feet in poop, and so I had to clean her. This one is being a good boy as ever. [Kisses cat] But yeah, actually what I’ve been dealing with mostly is this girl right here. So this is my curvy BJD project I’ve been working on. I just wanted to see what I was working with because it’s really hard to tell how smooth a line you have until you paint it. I think most of the seam here is that I didn’t add enough paint when I was painting her chest. She’s also, and I didn’t realize. She’s unevenly yellowed. So her legs are less yellowed than the upper body, so up here, if you can see, the paint actually starts looking kind of pink. And so I wanted to get her together. This is what she looks like. I think, aesthetics-wise, I need to bulk up the legs. I’m trying to avoid this joint here because it’s going to cause some issues if I have to rework it, but I think I can make this more convex instead of concave, which will help me a little bit. Her hips are looking a little bit big, proportionally, and her arms are looking kind of weak, but again, I’m not sure I want to be fighting with joints. So I don’t know how much I want to add to make them bulkier. She does have a nice profile. So it’s still—so this is my curvy, chubby BJD. So she’s perhaps a little fat, but she’s still got an hourglass figure, which I tried because there is the Of Butterflies and Things Claudette (by Arwen Grune) for a chubby or fat 1/3rd scale SD. Oh, and the Sharmisthra body, which is an older body which is also kind of chubby. She perhaps had a more hourglass figure like this doll here. So I was trying to do a body type that didn’t really exist. And then, she’s got some serious thunder thighs. I think the concavity works for the inner thighs. That’s about what mine look like, but here needs to be a little more convex in order to look more realistic, and then hopefully, I will not have to mess with the joints. That would be ideal. My goal is not to make a BJD, it is to modify an existing doll into a body type that looks realistic, but is different from what I started with. If you are unfamiliar with this process, the base body was an AngelsDoll Massive female body, which is already kind of wider to begin with [but not chubby or fat], so that helped me a little bit. I will say the majority of this project has ended up being additive modifications. The only subtractive mods I ended up doing is I ended up cutting the torso a little bit on the sides so that it was more straight across instead of arched to make this joint fit together a little bit better. So as you can see, there’s actually not that much gapping here. So I guess I’ll show you range of motion. So this is all the way back. She’s still got back movement. She’s got forward still pretty good. So this joint is actually quite lovely. She’s strung pretty tight, which is a problem. This joint is problematic, though. So I can set her in the way it’s supposed to go. I can push these buttcheeks all the way back. But when she sits down, it wants to go like this. See this gapping here? Gapping? So what I need to do, I think, is go up in here and cut this out a little bit, and I need to shave this down a little bit. But I think I can get it to work. I know, look at this dent! It’s nasty! So another adventure: after you do these mods—it started out this white color—you have to resin match them [the mods] to the rest of the body, so I decided to try paint because that’s what you normally do to match additive modifications to a body. And I’d been hearing really good things—I’m going to set this down she doesn’t have a stand; I don’t have any doll stands actually—I’d been hearing good things about this Minwax water-based polyacrylic finish—sorry, we’ve got a cat here too—and so the advantages of this is that it’s going to be totally harmless for the resin. I looked up the SDS, the safety data sheet, for this Minwax, and it’s basically a water-based sealant that has a little bit of silicon powder in it, so not silicone but silicon, and they kind of suspend it in this varnish to give it a little bit of a sturdier feel. And it does feel sturdy when you put it on, but I’ll show you the damage: it was not satisfactory in its strength. I think it’s probably better than—what is it?—it’s probably better than your general Testor’s Dullcote, your Mr. Super Clear, your ZM, or Zoukiemura Spray. What else is typically used? Probably even better than your Krylon. You can really layer this on. Let me see if I can open it. It’s like a paint can, so I’ve got to like [torque it]. I’ve got loads of it now. So I think I’m still going to use it in my sealing. Can you see? So it’s this real liquid-y, and you just dab it on. So the reason I brought up the Safety Data Sheet is 1) it doesn’t have any oils that would seep into the resin, 2) it doesn’t have any acetone, 3) it doesn’t have any alcohols (isopropyl alcohol, nothing like that), so it’s not going to harm your doll, I just don’t know if it’s as effective as we had all hoped. What I will say is I only let it dry for maybe about 12 hours instead of 24 before stringing the doll, and so that could have potentially caused some problems, maybe it didn’t dry all the way, and that’s why it’s cracking. I will say, I don’t think so. It says on the container that it’s supposed to be fast drying, and I think I gave it a reasonable amount of time. So I don’t actually know what my strategy is for this. I’m going to make these little modifications to the shape to get what I want. And probably because I have to go in there anyway, I’m going to smooth some of this. I’ve got some unevenness here, her butt’s pretty uneven, got some unevenness in the back of the legs. So I’ll go in and do that. I think I’m going to leave her like this for a little bit, just because the sanding and sculpting process does take quite a while, especially when you’re trying to do it without automotive filler or a surfacer, which is what BJD sculptors use. I don’t want to use a surfacer because I’m not aware of them coming a color which is easily coverable, and even if I could find it in a white, I’m concerned with the shine—that it would generate a surface that the paint will not want to stick to. So I don’t want to use a surfacer and I kind of don’t want to use an automotive filler for a similar reason. Another move, probably, in my future, will be sueding this doll, so seeing if a combination of sueding, a stronger sealant, maybe waiting with this overnight if I can’t find something stronger, but I have this terrible feeling that dyeing this doll is in my future, and it’s going to be a nightmare because Milliput and resin take dye differently, and Milliput takes it more, if you’ve listened to some of my other videos, it also ends up pinker. So I have to color-correct this by masking off the Milliput, dyeing the resin to almost quite right removing the MASK, removing the red from the dyebath which basically means remaking the entire dyebath, and then dyeing it, so this one will end up the same value and the same shade. Yeah. I really don’t want to do that. If anybody else has any suggestions, other ways that I could avoid doing that. Part of that is I hate painting dolls so much that I never do it, and so I’m kind of out of practice in the ways that you can minimize the inevitable consequences of painting a body that has joints that rub together. Oh, another negative of this, if you can see—so I think, Anne Pecaro made a video about this, and then, where else did I see it? Maybe on Den of Angels, and both of them had purchased—again, I have to set her down— both of them had purchased the gloss. The MOST matte that I could find at the store was clear satin; there’s a semigloss and a clear satin. There’s also a sprayable version, but I could not find it, and also I’m currently in an apartment, and so I’d have to actually go to my parent’s house in order to spray. I think it’s [non-spray sealant] supposed to be like orders of magnitide less harmful than the Zoukiemura spray, the Mr. Super Clear, the Krylon, from looking at the SDSs, and I still need to make that video, they’re all about equally harmful, and it’s the aerosolized components that are problematic. So theoretically, once it [sprayable sealant] dries, once it settles. it’s no longer a problem. Yeah, so that’s my process. So it’s very encouraging in that this does look very realistic, and the joints do work reasonably well together, but it’s discouraging in that the miracle sealant didn’t work out as well and these thighs are still not quite right. I’m trying not to let myself get burned out is sort of what’s going on, and I do want to enjoy the aesthetic of this silhouette for a little bit before I take her apart again. So that’s my progress this weekend. Bye!

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