DIY POR 15 – How To Prep Rust Before Applying POR15


(upbeat music) – Hey, this is Donnie Smith and we’re on the Mustang project. And you can see that we’ve
got some of this coated. We got the floor pan
coated, we used the POR 15. In this video, I’m going to
show you the steps that we took to get it prepped and
ready to apply the POR 15. (techno music) But first, if you’re
not already a subscriber of this YouTube channel, I encourage you to subscribe to this channel. We post a new video
teaching you the auto body and paint basics every Tuesday. And we also have access to additional training at collisionblast.com. You go to collisionblast.com, subscribe, become a member, it’s free. You’ll gain access to
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mention that we teamed up and have a lot of
supplies, like this POR 15. You know, tools, anything you
need for auto body and paint. They’re very low cost, you
know, the name brand tools. You know, any kinda
tool you’re looking for, you probably can find there. And the good thing is, it’s at low cost, and you can have this delivered
straight to your door. So, be sure and check out
collisionblast.com/supplies to check out what we
have to offer you there. And there, you’ll also
see my pick of tools, you know, the tools that
I’ve used in these videos, the tools that I prefer and recommend, and don’t mind recommending to you. So be sure and go to collisionblast.com/supplies
and check that out. Okay, now let’s talk
about gettin’ this ready to use the POR 15. Now these are the products,
it’s basically a three step. You have a cleaner and a metal prep, and then you have the POR 15. But before any of this, a lot of prep goes into place before you even
start using this stuff. So, you’ve got a floor pan, and you’ve got a couple of options. You know, it’s got some
rust, what do you do? Well you can do like what we did here. We got as much of the
rust as we could out. So, what we did is we went
in and first we got a grinder with a wire wheel on it, and we got as much of that out as possible. Jacob spent quite a bit of time in there getting as much as he could. Now we’re not going to able
to get every bit of it out, but we got the rust, the seam sealer, just got as much of the old
product that we could out. You know, the paint, the
rust, the seam sealer. And then, once we did that, and here’s something
else I want to mention, as you know on this project,
I’m using minimum tools. I’m not using air
compressor or a DA sander. But what I did do, is I
went and got a DA sander, and it’s a DeWalt sander,
and it worked fine for this. Now I would still prefer an air sander if I had a compressor for this project, but it did the job, and it worked well. So that’s something to think
about if you’re at your house and you don’t have all
the things that you need, like an air compressor, or a DA sander. You know, there are things you can do. I can’t remember the cost of that exactly, but it wasn’t too expensive, and that’d be maybe
something that you’d try. So then we sanded all this with a DA, and we just used 80 grit. We’re not that worried
about getting it too smooth. We’re just wantin’ to get
it down, we used 80 grit. And another tool that I got is actually for another job I did, but
I used it on this, too, and that’s a Dremel tool. And a Dremel tool was able to get some of the seam sealer out
and dig down in some of these areas that’s kinda hard to sand. We’re also using it where
we sectioned in some, and, the Dremel tool, you
know that’s an electric tool. You don’t need an air compressor. And then, once we had it
wire-brushed as good as we could, and then we DA sanded everything, the last step that we did
was use a Scotch-Brite, just to try to get any surface rust, or, you know, any glossy
spots, or anything. And that’s just the final step
to get the hard to get areas. So we used a red scuff
pad and we scuffed all that up the best that we could. And then, before we continued, you want to get all that outta there. And, even if I had a compressor, I think this is a better method. What we did is we used a vacuum instead of blowing all that dust
and stuff everywhere, you know, you use a
vacuum to suck it all up, a lot cleaner environment, and you don’t have dust everywhere. So I think that’s a better method, even if you do have a air compressor. Oh, and I’d also like to mention, before we ever started,
we vacuumed it as well. So we vacuumed, wire-brushed,
DA sanded, scuffed, and then vacuumed again,
a lot of cleaning. You know, you want to get rid as much of that dirt as you can. So we’ve got it good and clean, and now we can start the POR 15 process. Now you can buy these separately, or there’s kits you can buy as well. Now we just bought ’em separately, and the cleaners aren’t that expensive. The POR 15 is where the cost is at, and it’s not too bad either. But, it comes to three
products, this is Marine Clean. It’s basically a good degreaser to make sure the surface
is good and clean. Now you don’t want to get this and just start spraying it on. If you read the directions,
it says that to dilute at least one-to-one with water. So, one part this to one part water, and it also says on here
that five parts water to one part of this
will work for most jobs. I decided to go with four-to-one. I mixed four parts of
this to one part of water, and I used it using a mixing cup. I mixed it together, and then I got another spray bottle to
pour that mixture in. So really, this goes a long ways, I’ve got quite a bit of this left. So now I had the new mixture in this, and what I did is I went around, and I sprayed the entire surface. Now I did the floor board, I
did these blockers up here, and I did back here in
the trunk area as well. Now let me explain this real fast. Now I still gotta go back
and do some seam sealing. There’s a little bit of rust holes, but I wanted to get all this on, you know, the degreaser,
the metal treatment, and POR 15, just to seal off
everything as good as possible. Now there may be some areas I need to come back and grind down, but at least I know that all the crevices and all that are covered
as good as possible. So, I used this, and I
sprayed the entire surface and I just kinda kept going around it ’cause you want to keep it wet. You don’t want to allow
this to dry on its own. So you kinda go back around it, making sure that it doesn’t dry on you. So I just keep reapplying it for about 15, 20 minutes,
keep it good and wet. Then once it’s been on there about 15 or 20 minutes and it’s been wet, then you just get a water hose, and what I did is I came in here and just rinsed it off real good. Now, if I had a few spots
that was puddling up, I got a towel and just kinda padded that just to help soak a little bit of that water in this floor pan. There’s a few areas that I had to do that. So, once I did that,
then you can come back with your prep and ready spray, and what this is, this
is your metal treatment. Now with spraying these
products we use a dust mask. A respirator would probably
even do a better job. These products have some acid in it, and you really don’t want to be breathing that acid in, so you want to use gloves, and you want to have a
dust mask or respirator. So once we got this rinsed off, then we switched to the prep and ready. And this is a metal treatment, and this is another product
that has acid as well. And it basically follows
the same method as this, except this is ready to spray,
you don’t have to mix it. It comes with a sprayer on it, and you can just spray it on there. But you want to spray
it on all the surfaces that you’re going to be using the POR 15, and you want to keep it wet. Now we kept this wet for
about 20 to 30 minutes. So we just kept reapplying
it, going around, keeping it wet until the 30 minutes. Now after using this, I
think it worked really good, and I would recommend using
this if you have rust. Now, there is one option as to doing all the steps I just talked about. And those are the second option, I mentioned the first,
there’s a couple options. On the POR 15 it states, if
all this was sandblasted, you can clean it off real good, and you don’t have to do these steps. You can put the POR 15 product straight on top of a sandblasted surface, and that’s because all
traces of rust are gone. And you don’t have to worry
about fighting the rust or anything like that,
you’re just coating it. So, if it’s sandblasted you
can skip the Marine Clean, and you can skip the prep and ready, and go straight to the next step, which we’ll cover in the next video. Hope you enjoyed this
video, thanks for watchin’, and be sure and subscribe
to our YouTube channel, like this video, and go
to collisionblast.com, subscribe for free, gain
free access to training, and also be sure and go to
collisionblast.com/supplies and look at some of my tools and supply picks that
I personally recommend. Thanks for watching this video, and remember, if something’s worth doing, do your best and have a blast doing it. Hey, before you go
anywhere, be sure and check out some my other videos and playlists.

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