Great Guide Plastic Models – Riveting and Rescribing Panel Lines


Greetings to the third video tutorial. Today it will be Restoring engravings and riveting After using putty, engraving is hardly visible and with irregular depth. I use a razor saw for restoring lines. The lines are nicely highlighted and deepened with gentle strokes. Another option is to use a burin, which is designated for this purpose, but I use it only for finishing the lines. If the line is only covered with surfacer, then there is no problem to engrave by guesstimate. Otherwise, I must use a masking tape that guides me and helps me to keep straight lines. It is easier and safer to use a razor saw for leading edges of the wings. Using burin is not advised, because you must apply too much preassure, and it could rupture the bonded joint. If I restore engravings sealed with putty, then I have to correctly measure the distances, since it is necessary to pay attention to symmetry with the other half of the wing, where engravings are already indicated. Riveting It is important to find good documentation, so-called riveting drawings or simply blueprints. You can find them in hobby magazines or often on the Internet too. and now I show you how find some bluprine on internet The easiest way is to enter proper keywords into Google and then choose settings for large size black and white pictures. If you don’t find anything reasonable, then you can try Russian website www.airwar.ru. Unfortunately it is only in Russian languge, but you can simply find your model in following list: http://www.airwar.ru/other/draw/ And now back to riveting. It is important to have a fine riveting wheel. The one with wooden handle is made by “Doušek“, the metal one by “RIVET-R”. Another option is makeshift riveting wheel made from a cogwheel taken from an old watch. I know that some pro hobbyists can make riveting freehand and straight, but prefer to measure everything with a ruler and mark with a pencil. The masking tape will help me again in achieving straight lines. I don’t apply too much preassure on the wheel because once again it threatens to rupture the bonded joints. Some hobbyists prefer to make rivets before spraying model with surfacer, but pesonally, I don’t like it. I usually clean depressions and impurities with a sandpaper after applying surfacer, so after one or two layers of surfacer, there will be no visible rivets anymore. Therefore I prefer to create rivets just before the model is ready for painting. When I’m done, I simply erase the marks with a rubber. If you push on the rivets too much, you will create protrusions above the aircraft surface, which is not entirely correct. It is suitable to clean them with a sandpaper. Afterwards, you can simply blow away the dust with preassured air from airbrush. I can usually manage to create rivets only on small areas, but I prefer to draw pencil lines to keep the right direction anyway. If I made a crooked line, then I would have too much extra work of puttying and sanding. If you still think that riveting is unnecessary, then here is the difference between two wings. I think that the wing with handmade riveting looks more realistic and makes the overall impression much better. It does not hurt to mark complicated rivet lines with a pencil. During riveting I discovered that the kit lacks additional armor plates, so I decided to create them from plastic boards. It is very time consuming to create riveting on the whole model, but the result is worth it. Of course, it requires some practice and experience. Therefore, if you are not satisfied with your work at first, then don’t give up. Next time it will certainly be better and better.

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