How to Build Jet Aircraft Plastic Model Kits | Video Workbench


– Welcome to the Video
Workbench classic series instructional video How
to Build Jet Aircraft. Now you can learn all the
techniques for building great looking jet aircraft
straight from the box without buying expensive
aftermarket detailing parts. From instrument panels to camouflage, surface detailing to details, you’ll learn skills that will make any modern military aircraft
model a show stopper. Even though originally produced in 1992, the techniques used in
this video still cover everything you need to get
going with your model kit. The examples shown here really
haven’t changed too much. There is no definitive way
of building a model kit. Everyone has their own way of doing things and with time, so will you. This video teaches dozens of useful tips, no matter what your skill level, including what I consider
the three import T’s of model kit building,
tips, tools, and techniques. I would like to talk a little bit about the instructor in this
video, Chris Wilson. Chris Wilson is a professional
prototype model builder. He has won dozens of first place regional, state and national IPMS modeling contests for his science fiction
and jet aircraft models. I hope by watching this
video that you walk away with a better knowledge of how to safely and correctly assemble a plastic model kit along with having found or
coming back into a hobby that is very fun and rewarding. Thank you and enjoy. (upbeat music) – [Man] Build only in
a well-ventilated area. Protective eyewear and
a breathing apparatus should be worn at all time. – Hi, I’m Chris Wilson and I’ll be your host on Video Workbench. In front of me is my MiG-29
Fulcrum in 132 scale. This model has won seven
awards including first place in out-of-box at the IPMS
Nationals in St. Louis. I’ve been going to model
contests for 12 years and am currently employed
as a prototype model maker. I’m about to show you the
various techniques I use to build my models as well as
give you some hints and tips at what judges are
looking for at contests. I’ll be using the MiG to demonstrate with, but you can use these techniques
to make any jet aircraft look great and hopefully
win some awards too. So let’s begin. (upbeat music) Now there are some
must-have tools for hobbying including hobby knives, sandpaper ranging from 220
to 1200 grit wet or dry, an old toothbrush, various types of tape including drafting tape,
fine line automotive tape, scotch transparent tape, Post-it notepads, an airbrush, super glue and liquid cement, various sizes of brushes
including a dust brush as well as bottle caps to
help you mix your paint in, some needle files. Some other items that are
nice to have include tweezers, an artist’s inking pen, a scribe tool as well as
a steel ruler, a pen vise, drill bits, small drill bits
ranging in size from 60 to 80, a punch and die set is useful for punching circles out
of decal paper, plastic. (upbeat music) You’ll also need some reference material. Laid out in front of me
I’ve got several magazines that you can pick up at
your local hobby shop. You can pick up videotapes
at your hobby shops as well as record stuff from TV. A&E, Discovery, PBS all
run good shows on aircraft. Air shows are a good source. Also have to choose a color scheme. This is partially dependent
on what decals are available. For the MiG, I chose the Iraqi markings and fortunately they were available. I’ve got in front of me
my reference materials, which I’ve studied and familiarized myself with the aircraft. I’ve got the major pieces,
which I’ll be cutting from the trees and test fitting. I’ve got my instructions,
which I don’t recommend following the construction sequence there. Things like landing gear,
tail cones, missiles we’ll save for a later point. What I want to do is construct the model to a point where it’s ready to paint. (upbeat music) I’ve got in front of me all the parts of the cockpit laid out. I’ve got the instructions
here as a reference. I’ve got my photos, reference
photos from various sources and I’m preparing the parts. As described earlier, I’m
removing the mold seam that runs around all the parts. The sprue attachment
points, I’m removing those. I’ve gone ahead and spray painted two halves of an ejection seat black here. I’m gonna demonstrate dry brushing using the black and some white. Come in and take some
black, little bit of white, put the white off to the side and I want to lighten the
black just a little bit. So I’m coming up with a dark gray shade. Now… I’m gonna take and dry the
brush on a paper towel. Till you’re getting very
little paint sticking. So we’ve got an almost dry brush here. We’ll come in and just
hit the part lightly and what this does, the paint
sticks to the high spots, starting to lighten the higher spots. (spray gun hissing) We’ll let that dry for a few minutes and you’ll be able to see the difference. This ejection seat has
already been dry brushed. The cushions have been dry brushed with olive drabs going from dark to light. It’s already been dull coated. The sides have been dry
brushed from dark to light using the black and white and we’re ready to put
seat belts on this seat. And I’m gonna be using watercolor paint. I’ve got some black here. Put a little dab in a beer cap. I use the watercolor to pick
out small details and lines. I like using watercolor
because it’s not permanent. If you make a mistake, you can
clean it off pretty easily. Get a little bit and
just touch it to a line and allow it to flow into the lines. I’m not worried about slop. Because it’s watercolor,
it’s easily removable. I’ll come in and remove
that stuff in a moment. I’m getting a nice hard outline around all the gauges, instruments that otherwise would have to
be carefully hand painted. This makes things much easier. Okay, I’m gonna come in and clean off the excess watercolor
paints using a damp Q-tip. Okay, now we’ve got the
outlines of the gauges painted with watercolor black. Painting the insides will be much easier. I’m coming in with black enamel. And we’ll just fill in the blanks. Now I’m gonna come in and
paint the gauges with white, the numbers and dials. A little bit of white oil paint and then oil paint’s easier
to paint small details with because it stays wet on your brush longer. Just a little bit on the brush. Adding color to cockpits. When you look at photos of a cockpit, there usually isn’t a whole lot of color, but you do need some. In this case, I’ve got some color photos so I’m just gonna match
what’s in the photo. A little bit dab of red here. Just a little bit of color. Too much color usually looks kinda hokey. To simulate the glass over
the top of the gauges, I’m gonna come in, put a
little bit of gloss coat on. In this case, I would say
don’t use any gloss you want. Definitely use something water base so the gloss doesn’t soften
your lacquers and clear coats and distort your detail painting. Okay, raised details, I use more or less a dry brush technique. I’ve got more paint on the brush than I would use for dry brushing. I come in and lay the brush on its edge, come across and pick out the highlights. I’m using a large brush just moistened with a
little bit of paint thinner. Come in and wet the surface and I’m coming in with a wash of gray oil thinned with Turpenoid and I’m gonna touch it to the
corners and allow it to flow, flow out. Just touching spots here and
there and it’ll connect itself. Now I’m going to dirty the cockpit up and add some shadows with chalk pastel. What I’ve got here is a
stick of black chalk pastel. Using the edge of a knife, I’m gonna scrape a
little bit of powder off, take some pastel… and put it in where there
would be shadow and dirt. Adds some life to an
otherwise flat surface. The pastel should be
applied over a surface that’s been previously dull
coated or a flat paint. They don’t stick well to gloss paints. Now, fitting our painted
cockpit tub into the fuselage we see that the sidewall here looks blank. It’s got some mold marks on it. It needs something. You can also see the top
around the instrument shroud. It looks thick and out of scale. So what we can do, come in… thin the edges of this with file or scrape it with an
X-Acto till that’s thin. We’ll come in and sand
this molding defects off the sidewall here. I’m gonna paint some detail on there. Now, in here you see I’ve sanded the detail away on the sides, come in and painted and
penciled in small lines in here, actually just pencil lead, put some detail in there. See I’ve got my pastels,
I’ve got my washes. Instrument panel, I’ve got
the gauges glossed over. I’ve already attached the control stick. I’ve got the shroud thinned. We’re ready to go ahead and
attach our ejection seat and do our finishing details
along the outside surfaces. Now because I built my MiG for out-of-the-box at the IPMS Nationals, they don’t allow any additions to the kit except for paper seat belts
and paper seat belt buckles, no aftermarket buckles,
no bent up wire buckles. So what I’m doing here
is cutting some strips of in this case TV Guide. Now I’m going to tape them down, spray paint one side and
spray paint the other side. Cut them to length and glue them in. Like I said, IPMS National’s
rules for out-of-the-box don’t allow aftermarket seat belt buckles. So I’m gonna cut a little buckle, a little bit of silver paint. Okay, I’m taking the olive drab color that I painted the seat belts with and I’m gonna do a little
bit of dry brushing, a little bit of white. Come up with a lighter shade. This should be done in steps. Going from your darker
shade to your lighter shade just like the dry brushing
described earlier. Okay, on the buckle, paint where the little hole is with a little spot of black paint. Put a little dab of super glue where you’re gonna be attaching it. Lower it right in there. Position it carefully with a toothpick. Now I’ve just added two belts here. There’s actually several
belts, which I’ll go on and add and we’ll go ahead and attach the seat and put the canopy on. Now looking at my reference photos, I can see that there’s some small labels, miscellaneous stuff on the
sides of the ejection seat as well as throughout the cockpit. So I’m gonna find some
decals from my decal box. Now I’ve picked the decal
up on the tip of the brush and using my reference photos, that’s about where it goes right there. Most all modern jets
have a heads-up display of some sort or other. There’s a reflective surface under here that shines the light
up into a plate of glass the pods look at and to simulate that lens, I’m gonna punch a disc
of silver decal paper out and apply that. So what I’ve got here
is a punch and die set, some silver decal paper. (banging) Okay, so I’ve got my disc of
silver decal material here. I’m gonna go ahead and apply that. Okay, before I attach
the heads-up display, I’m gonna go ahead and dry
brush the shroud a little bit, add a bit of life to it. First, I’m gonna put the clear lens on. Then I’m just gonna put a little bit of that thinned out white
glue right around the edge. Just a little dab on each side. Drop it in there. The reason I’m using white glue is because it dries clear. This is what our heads-up
display looks like when it’s attached. We’re now ready to attach the canopy. (upbeat music) (upbeat music) Whenever possible, try and
glue parts from the inside where the glue seam won’t show. In this case, I’m using
an artist’s inking pen to pick up some super glue. And I’m gluing from the inside. Now I’m gonna glue the cockpit in. Once again, I’m gonna be gluing from the inside of the fuselage. To make things go quicker, I’m gonna use some super glue accelerator. A little shot and it’s dry. Go ahead and glue this
from several points. Now because I’m gonna close
the canopy on this airplane, I want to make sure no dust
can get into the cockpit through the inside of the fuselage. So I’m gonna go around
the edges of the cockpit and seal this joint
completely with white glue. Now prior to gluing the fuselage together, I’m gonna drill out the gun port here. I’ve got a number 70 drill bit
in this case and a pen vise. And clean up the insides. I’m gonna take advantage of the fact that there’s an opening in the nose and I’m gonna put some
super glue on the inside. I’ll use the Zip Kicker
to accelerate the glue. Flip it over and do the other side. Come back and glue this in several places using the super glue and the inking pen. Now I’m going to reinforce
this from the inside and finish gluing my seam by putting several drops of glue in and allowing it to roll down the inside. It should have flowed down the seam and glued the seam all
the way along the side. I’ll do this for both sides. Now we’re ready to go
ahead and fill a seam. There’s a seam running along there on the side of the
fuselage and running back. I’m gonna fill the seam with super glue. What I’m doing is I’m
gonna build the surface up till the super glue… Is just slightly higher than
the surrounding plastic. Now I don’t like to use the accelerator when I’m filling seams. It tends to make the super glue harder than the surrounding plastic. And I’ll fill a small
portion of the seam at a time and come back and sand it out. Super glue gets harder as it dries. We want to sand it out
while it’s still soft. Now you can see I’ve
built the super glue up higher than the surface of the plastic. Now we’re ready to come and sand that out and there should be no
apparent seam when we’re done. Now we’re gonna come and
sand that super glue off. (scraping) I’m using 320 wet. Try not to sand too far
into the other areas. Don’t want to lose too much detail. If we lose some detail,
we can fix that up. Now I’m gonna sand with some 400 wet. (scraping) Let’s use some 600 wet. Dry the model a little bit. Now I’m taking a rag that has been soaked in Brasso metal polish and allowed to dry. This forms a nice polishing compound. I’ll lightly polish the plastic here. I’m gonna hold it up to the light to see whether I’ve filled my seam or not. I’m holding this up and looking
at it towards the light. Using the reflection, you can see in here that this area’s not filled. So I’m gonna come back and fill that area. Okay, now looking at it
towards the light again, we can see that the seam is filled. You can see that the area
where I’ve got hot stuff as a filler, but it’s
sanded out and polished and now it won’t show. We have lost some panel lines. We’ll come back now and re-scribe those. This side has not been filled. Now I’m gonna re-scribe
this line that we lost around the fuselage here. To begin, I’m using a curved blade. Begin by laying it on the line here. I’ll scribe first of all a
straight cut right around the top so I’ve got a line to follow. Now I’m going to form a V by cutting first at one angle… Then at the other angle. I’m gonna use the old toothbrush to help remove some of those burrs. Now I’m gonna use a scribe tool to come in and square that cut up, taking really light passes. Doing it at an angle first
to help deepen that V groove. And on my final pass, I’ll use a little bit of
authority here to square it out. Once again, grabbing a toothbrush. Now I’m going to look
at it towards the light to make sure that it looks good. Now I’ve lost some of the detail around these hatches on
the side of the fuselage. I’m gonna use a compass point to come back and re-scribe those. Templates are available
in different shapes, but generally I’m gonna go
ahead and use a straight edge to get this one side and I’ll just lightly scribe
it with a compass point. I’m gonna take some 600 grit sandpaper, sand some of that debris off of there, grab the toothbrush, clean up the lines and see where I’m at. It’s gonna take a little more scribing, but it’s just repeating the process until you’re happy with what you’ve got. I’m ready to glue together the wings, but before gluing it together, I’m gonna cut a little hole
here where it won’t show so that I can run some glue
on the inside of the wing to reinforce it. Cut one towards the back of the wing too. And I’ll just glue the trailing edge. The leading edge we can
get from the inside. A good point to make here is thinning trailing edges of wings. This kit is nice and thin and
there’s no work to be done. Some kits, the trailing edge
is much too thick for scale. Okay now that we’ve got
that glued together, I’m gonna take the super
glue, this hole that we made, I’m just gonna put a couple
drops inside the wing. And I’m gonna let that run
around the inside of the wing. Okay, now I’ve blocked the
wing up with my sanding block and various thicknesses of sheet plastic until I’ve come to something
close to the same angle that’s shown in the three-view drawing in one of my reference books. I’m gonna go ahead and glue it
in place using those blocks. Now in preparing to glue this wing on, I don’t want to fill the area between the flap and the fuselage or the leaning edge slat
and the fuselage with glue. So I’m gonna take a little piece of clay. Put a little piece of clay
there to act as a damn. Also try not to get too
much glue in that area. Take some super glue. Make sure it’s on the blocks. Okay, I’ve still got the wing blocked up and I’m coming back and
filling the line up completely and slightly overfilling
it so we can sand this out and eliminate our seam. Okay, my glue’s dried. I’m ready to sand the seam out. Now because I’m coming into
a right angle right here, I’m gonna fold a piece
of sandpaper in half. And sand right into that seam. (scraping) And this area where it becomes flush, I’ll go ahead and sand that and I’ll use my fingers to back it out. I would block sand it, but it’s not flat. Now, I’ve sanded the
seam out and polished it. I’ll come in and remove the debris from all the surrounding
lines with a toothbrush to determine what needs to be re-scribed. So I’m gonna come in here
with a straight edge. And because this is a nice flat surface, I’ll just go straight
in with the scribe tool. And what I just did
there, I missed my line. I used a knife blade and
I scratched the surface. Those are easily burnished
out with a fingernail. Press it back in and start over and that shouldn’t show. Using light passes. Now I’ve also lost some of
my rivet detail up here. I’m gonna grab my pen vise. Grab a small drill bit. When using really small drill bits, it’s best to have them stick out of the pen
vise just a little bit. The further they stick out, the better your chance of breaking them. Now I’m gonna come in and redrill the rivets that
I sanded out or filled. Just a few twists. I’ve taken my reference book
with the three-view drawing and I’ve drawn lines across
where the landing gear are and on the vertical stabilizer,
which are at a slight angle. Now I’ve taken a piece of sheet plastic and cut it to that angle. I’m gonna use this as
a template to make sure that I get my vertical
stabilizers lined up properly. Now I’m gonna position it. I’m taking my template and I’m gonna look down
the length of the fuselage. I’m gonna line this up. Now I’m gonna come in with some super glue and tack it into place. Add a couple tacks along the edge. Then we’ll come back and fill this seam. And I’m gonna check it
with my template again. Okay, it looks right still. So I’m gonna give it a quick
shot of the accelerator. Now, our stabilizers are given the same block
treatment as the wings using the three-view drawing, determining how many
blocks to put under it and we’re not gonna fill this seam. The reason I’m not going to
fill the seams on the stabilizer is that most modern fighters,
the entire stabilizer moves. So there would be a gap there. (upbeat music) Okay, what we’re gonna do now is remove the canopy from the tree. Nice little trick I found
for removing canopies is to use a hot knife. Take a candle and X-Acto
knife, heat your blade up. And carefully cut through the tree, leaving a little bit excess that we’ll come back and file off. Carefully file away the burrs. The hot knife trick works especially well when you have no canopy
frame surrounding the canopy like we’ve got here. And if you don’t use a hot knife, you take a chance of
stress fracturing the glass and there’s nothing you can do about that. Okay, we’ve removed the burr with a file, gotten it kinda close. Now I’m coming in with some 400 wet and I’m gonna block sand that down till it’s about flush. Now a little bit of 600 wet. Now a little 1200 wet. Okay. We’ve removed all the burrs. We’re ready to start
polishing the canopy now. Notice the difference between
your unpolished canopy and your polished canopy. We’re gonna get the lines underneath. And an unpolished, polished one. Now I’m holding my canopy
up to the light here to see how much distortion I’ve got. I’ve got a nice big scratch here that looks like it may need
some 600 grit to take it out. I’ll also hold a steel ruler up to see the clarity of the lines. Generally I’ll start out
with the lightest grit to see if that does the trick. I’m starting out with some 1200 wet and I’m gonna begin with a circular motion and sand the whole canopy out. Now I’m gonna come in
with this piece of t-shirt soaked in Brasso metal polish. When allow to dry, it
forms a real fine powder, polishing powder. And just buff away. Now this is a standard
automotive polishing compound, not very coarse. It does get the trick done fast though. Starting to get clear. Now I’m gonna come back
with just the Brasso. It’s a finer polish. The more you rub, the shinier
and smoother it’ll get. A good polished canopy
attracts a lot of attention. Come in finally with a clean t-shirt. Really buff it nice and hard, as hard as you can go
without cracking the canopy. It’s definitely getting
clearer than it was. I can see that there’s
some distortion inside so I’m gonna come back and
polish the insides too. Grabbing a fresh piece of 1200, I’m gonna pull it over a
sharp edge on the table. This breaks the back on the sandpaper so you can roll it up without
the paper cracking on you. Roll it as tight as you like. Sanding the inside of the canopy. If you can locate any big
scratches that the 1200 isn’t taking` out, go
ahead and go over to 600 and scratch over in
here with some 600 wet. And we’ll come back with an automotive polishing compound
again and polish it out. (squeaking) We polish our canopies because the originals do tend
to show some distortion and a good test for this, if you lay a steel ruler underneath or even a piece of
paper with typing on it, if you look at one side
and roll your head over, you’ll see that it does
show distortion as you move where the polished canopy
doesn’t show this distortion. (upbeat music) Okay, now I’m going to paint the inside of the canopy frames. On a larger scale model,
this is not so hard to do. I won’t worry about
covering it in one coat. Basically want to work
my way up to the line, the glass frame demarcation line. Here where I went over the line, I’m gonna come in with a toothpick and scrape some of that paint away. Okay, now we’re gonna use decals to paint the insides of our canopy frame. I’ve chosen a color of gray
that’s close to what I want. And I’m gonna go ahead
and cut the decal film off ’cause I don’t want any decal film on the inside of the canopy. Then you go through your
normal decal process. The advantage of using decals is you can get a nice clean, crisp line, as clean and crisp as you can cut it. (upbeat music) Okay, we’re ready to attach our canopy. I’m gonna put the rear
portion of the canopy in to help position the forward
portion of the canopy and glue the forward
portion on with super glue. Go ahead and position it. Now using a small piece of wire, I’m gonna get a little,
tiny drop of super glue. I’m gonna put a little tack in one corner. Tack in the middle. And a tack in the other corner. Now, we’ll let that set up. We don’t want to use too
much super glue at one time or it’s gonna cause the canopy to fog up. Okay, I’m holding the
windscreen in position. I’ve got it tacked in three places. Now I’m gonna come in in between those, put a couple more little tacks. And I’m gonna slowly work my
way around with small tacks. Till I’ve got the entire windscreen glued down with super glue. With that in position, we’ll go ahead and glue the rear
portion of the canopy on. We’ll go through one last
time and blow the cockpit out and make sure there’s
no dust in the cockpit. (blowing) I’m gonna run a little bead of white glue along the edge here. Once again, we’re using white
glue because it dries clear. I’ll go ahead and position it. Any excess we’ll just
wipe off with our finger and come back and clean
the glass up in a minute. Now, the reason we attach the windscreen portion
with super glue is because there shouldn’t be a
gap around the bottom. This portion back here moves. It’s never gonna get a full seal. So there will show a gap. Coming back in on the windscreen, I’m gonna fully fill that
crack with super glue and then I’m gonna come
in and sand that out. Blend it in with the fuselage. This is really important at contest. Judges do look at this kind of a thing. I’m looking towards the
light using the reflection to see that I have
completely filled the gap. Over on this side where
I haven’t filled it, you can see the difference. Okay, my super glue is dry. So I’m gonna come in with 600 grit wet and sand that seam out. (scraping) I’m ready for some 1200 grit. Okay, we’ve sanded the seam
down with 600 and 1200 wet. Now I’m taking my polishing cloth with the dried Brasso on it and I’m gonna come in
and polish the canopy out where I’ve sanded with the 1200. And we’re ready to mask
the canopy and paint. Okay, I have in front of me some 3M fine line tape in
16th inch and eighth inch as well as some drafting tape. The 3M tape is available
at automotive stores. The drafting tape you
can get in an art store. Go ahead and pull off some of
the 16th inch fine line tape and mask the windscreen. Go ahead and put it, tack it down in one corner of the canopy. Slowly stretch it around. You can use a toothpick
to help you position it. Burnish the edges with
your fingernail as you go and when we’re done with that, we’ll go ahead and mask the
other edges of the frame. The reason we’re using
the 3M, the fine line tape is because it’s easier to control
where you’re putting it on and it’ll give you a finer edge than a drafting tape or a masking tape. It’s not a cloth or paper tape. Now any areas that are
gonna be painted bare metal, such as the gun port in this case, we want to mask prior to painting. So I’m gonna go ahead and mask this off with some clear tape. Using my hobby knife… trim away the excess. (upbeat music) Okay, before I start airbrushing, I have to determine a
way to hold the model. Now, I’ve taken a piece of
wood here and carved up the end so that it fits nicely in the tail cone. This way I can hold the model, spray the whole thing
without handling the model. There’s other methods of doing this. On small-scale jets,
you can use a toothbrush and jam it in the tail pipe. Prior to airbrushing the model, I’m gonna wipe the whole
model down with a t-shirt to remove any finger oils
and dirt and residue. I’ll go ahead and mix up some paint. My colors, I’m using the kit
instructions as a reference for the light gray ’cause it looks right. Probably putting… 1/3 of thinner, 2/3 of paint. And what I like to do is
swirl it around in the cup and when the paint flows
down and becomes transparent, you got about the right consistency. Now I’m going to test my spray on a scrap piece of cardboard here. (spray gun hissing) You should always test it first. I’m gonna lay this cardboard to the side. And I’ll begin by getting some
paint flowing out of the gun and moving to the model. Now I’m spraying in
small circular motions, slowly filling it in. One area that can be a problem is where you have two
angles coming together. If I’m to spray this stabilizer, the overspray’s gonna come
up and stick to the sides of the rudder here and
the vertical stabilizer. The cure for that would be
to lower your air pressure if you’ve got a pressure regulator. So now I’m using real low pressure. And I’m gonna come in and spray along these cracks and crevices
and hard to get to places. Walk around your model
and check all your seams now that you’ve got a base coat of paint. If you see any seams
that need to be refilled, do it now. Alright, we’re ready to
paint our second color of our camouflage. Using a combination of
three sources that I found, I’m gonna green the color up a little bit. I’ve determined that this
one top view right here is as close as I’m gonna get to the actual Iraqi camouflage scheme. So I’ll be using this photo
for reference as I airbrush and I’ll set that back here. Now I’ve got my second
camouflage color here. I’m gonna do a test pattern on
the scrap piece of cardboard. I’ll begin out here on a wingtip. Now, I’ve the first pass I made isn’t quite to where I want to go. I’m gonna be putting more paint out here and crisping up this edge. Make that first pass short and then I’m gonna come
in and fill this in. I don’t want to spray
this vertical stabilizer and shaft dispenser portion here. So I’m gonna use a Post-it
notepad and stick it on there. In fact, I’m gonna use two. Slide one underneath the flap here to protect the side of the fuselage there. Now I’ve got that portion masked off. (spray gun hissing) Now I’m gonna come in and fill this in. Now if you’ve thinned your paint properly, you should be having no problems. If you’re getting spatter, you probably have too thick of paint. If you’re getting runs, your
paint is probably too thin. If the surface is coming
out like sandpaper, you probably have your
air pressure up too high. Now I’m gonna paint
the vertical stabilizer and to keep from getting my
overspray on the opposite side, I’ll put a mask up on the back. Notice when I start spraying, I always start spraying off of the model. That way if you get some spatter, it won’t get on your model. Okay, I’m gonna be using Post-it notepads to mask on all my straight edges and I’m doing what’s
called forced panel lines. Basically just stick your Post-it notepad along a panel line and I’m taking my
original camouflage color. I’m gonna lighten it and I’m gonna make it into a tint. So I’ve got 1/4 original camouflage color, about 3/4 flat, clear flat, and a couple drops of white. Stir that up. (spray gun hissing) And we want to spray right along the edge of this Post-it notepad. Confine it to the area
that’s the darker camouflage. I’m using the darker color right now. Now we sprayed the lighter
shade along the trailing edge or in this case the leading
edge of these panel lines. We’re gonna do that to all of the panel lines on the airplane. We’ll go front to back and towards the outsides of the airplane. Because I’ve made this paint into a tint, we can go back and forth till we’re happy with
the effect that we get. You want to keep it really subtle. This effect overdone will
make a model look pretty bad. As well as going side
to side along the edge, throw in a few streaks here
and there from front to back. (spray gun hissing) Then we’re gonna mask
some more difficult spots where it’s just impossible
to get a Post-it notepad to wrap around the contoured surface. So we’ll just carefully wrap it around, following the panel line. And it’s important that
you use drafting tape and not masking tape when you’re masking over the
top of a painted surface. Masking tape is a much higher tack and sometimes will tend to
pull your paint right off. Same process now. (spray gun hissing) Now while you’ve got that mask in place, you can come and hit some
of the straight lines with the Post-it notepads. (spray gun hissing) See what we’ve got. Some of these little access
panels up around the nose that are just too difficult to mask all the individual sides. So I’m gonna cut them out of
a piece of transparent tape. Use a brand-new X-Acto knife blade when you do something like this. And we’ll do the same thing,
spraying the front edge. I’m going to use a toothpick
to help me lift the tape up. So as not to scar the paint. So using the transparent tape, cutting out this one panel section, we are able to highlight
just this individual panel that would have otherwise been
almost impossible to mask. Now along the leading edges of
the wings and the stabilizers all the sharp leading
edges on the fuselage. I’m gonna come in and add this highlight. As well as some streaks. Using the fine line tape, masked around the nose,
sprayed the radome the gray. I’ve also masked this contoured line here. Sprayed the anti-glare panel black. Note also that I’ve highlighted
the anti-glare panel as well as the radome
while I had them masked up. Same technique used for
highlighting and camouflage. A little bit lighter shade of black. Mask the individual lines. Spray towards the back of the plane. In the case of the radome, I masked, sprayed towards
the front of the plane with a slightly lighter shade. The next step is to bring out the rivets and panel lines with oil paint. In order to this, we’re
gonna coat the model with Future floor wax to protect the enamel paint underneath. I’m using Future floor wax
straight out of the bottle. You can thin it if you like, but believe me it’s already pretty thin. Spray on a thin coat, continue moving. Continue coating the aircraft. We’re gonna be giving it
two or three thin coats. And on a model this large, by the time we finish
spraying the first coat, we can come back to our starting point and start spraying the second coat. A smaller model, I would allow
it to dry a little longer. (upbeat music) I’ve mixed black, white,
and raw umber oil paints in a beer cap here. I’ve come up with a complementary color to the camouflage scheme,
in this case a dirty gray that is not too dark. You don’t want to go too dark on this. And what we’re doing, we’re gonna pick out the panel lines and rivets with oil paint and you begin just by
scrubbing it into the cracks and lines and rivets. Don’t worry about your slop. Then we come back with a piece of tissue. And remove it. Come back with some Turpenoid
and a piece of tissue. And take a little bit out. What I’m gonna do now is use
a little bit of straight black and hit some things like
ailerons and control surfaces and get a harder line. I want a bigger contrast than what I had on the panel lines and rivets and you can see the
effect of the rivets here. On the top here, we’ve
got a series of vents that we’re gonna pick
out in a straight black. So I’m doing the same thing I
did on my flaps and ailerons and we’ll just put a little
bit of black oil paint in the cracks. Come back in with the tissue. Wipe away the excess. A little bit of Turpenoid to
remove the stain from the paint and there you’ve got some vents. And you’ll have a little more life than if you had left them unpainted. If you’re having any trouble
keeping the oil in the cracks, it doesn’t want to stay in, what you can do is come
back with a knife blade and re-scribe those lines. Same thing’s true with the rivets. If you’ve got a few rivets
that the oil won’t stick in, you can come back with
your little drill bit or you can come back
in with a compass point or a needle or pin and now those rivets
that wouldn’t work before come to life. Now, judges at contests
they’ll look at a model and if you’ve got a line that’s partial, if there’s a little bit
of oil here and oil here, they’re gonna mark that against you. So you want to make sure
and make all the lines even. (upbeat music) Okay, we’ve sprayed our
model with a gloss coat. We’re ready to put our decals on now. Now, I’ve chosen an Iraqi paint scheme. So I’ve went out and purchased
some aftermarket decals. Now I’m gonna prep the
surface with micro-set and this cleans the surface of the model. And position it according to
the instructions provided. Check it with our reference. Put a little bit of
Micro-Sol on top of that to soften the decal. It’ll make it conform
to the surface better. Careful positioning is very important. The decals should be aligned properly. Judges will look for that. Okay, now I’m going to apply a small decal and I’ll exclusively use a
paintbrush to handle this. Now going back to the flag, I’ve noticed that it did not
suck down into the rivets there so I’m gonna put a little more
Micro-Sol over those rivets. I’m gonna take a straight pin. You can use a needle or a compass point. Carefully poke holes in the decal to let some of the air out. Now, decals that are
applied to both the left and right-hand sides of the aircraft should line up properly. If you’ve got a model where
they’re not supposed to line up, you should bring
photographic evidence of this to the contest with you. Judges do check to see that
decals line up properly. (upbeat music) Okay, now I’m gonna come in
and paint the front gear well to demonstrate some washes. And I’m taking a brush
dampened with paint thinner, not excessively wet, and lightly wetting the
surface inside there. I’m gonna take another brush, get some Turpenoid, mix with my oils to create a wash and I’ve got
a really dirty wash in there. You can choose your color. You may want to do a black
wash or a dirty wash. And we’re gonna come in and
just touch it to some corners and let it spread out. Okay, now the wheel wells on this plane remain a light gray. I’m gonna come in with
the original gray color lightened with some white
and do some dry brushing. Okay, we’ve got our wash
and our dry brushing. Now we can come in and
pick some details out using some silver paint
and I’m gonna come in and pick out some of these hose fittings. Just do a little detail painting. Reference material really comes in handy in a case like this if you’ve got it, otherwise it’s up to the imagination. Okay, now our decals have dried. I’m gonna come in with
some Future floor wax after I dust this area and spray over the top of the decal where I’m gonna be putting
some oil paint in those rivets. (spray gun hissing) Just a little bit. I’m gonna go ahead and put the oil paint right in and around these rivets. And do the same thing we did
before with our oil paint. I’ll come in and wipe off the excess. Now for my final coat, I’m
gonna mix some clear flat. And a little bit of clear gloss. I don’t want a totally flat finish. Go ahead and spray the model up. Okay, I’m gonna spray the gun panel as well as the engine
parts, tail cone parts. I’ve got a metalizing type paint here. (spray gun hissing) This metalizer paint now
doesn’t take very long to dry. Once it’s dry, give it
a few minutes to dry, we can come in with a t-shirt
and I’m gonna buff it out. And it’ll get very shiny. It doesn’t take very much. I’m just gonna lightly buff this ’cause I don’t want it too shiny. Now I’m gonna do the same thing
with this tail cone piece. I’m gonna buff it out very lightly. Okay, we’re ready to do some weathering. I’m gonna use some oil paint. I’ve already got the gray color mix that we put in our panel lines. I’m getting a little bit more raw umber. Brown. What I’m gonna do is come along and take some of that gray
and a little of that brown… And here and there on the model, I’ll place just a small dab
behind a rivet or something and streak it back with my finger. So we’re gonna scatter
this weathering around. I’m gonna put small dabs
of paint here and there. Streak it back with my finger. We can use the same oil effect, thinned out with Turpenoid to get a little bit different effect, more of a wet streaked look. We want to keep all our
weathering settle though. I’m just gonna bounce
around here and there, put small streaks. Okay, now to simulate
exhaust and gun burns, I’m coming in with some black pastel that I’ve ground off with an X-Acto. And I’m going to stipple
it onto the surface here. Blow the excess off. Come back to these vents and
add a little bit of streaks. I’m gonna keep this subtle as with all your other weathering. Now, with pastels I don’t
recommend using a clear coat. This has a tendency to cause
them to go transparent. Once you’ve got them on there, basically you can’t handle them. So be careful when handling your model. Underwing stores, missiles, fuel tanks should be treated the same
as a separate aircraft model. All the seams should be filled. The lines should be re-scribed. If the fins are too thick, they should be thinned down or replaced. Now when painting them, I’ve gone ahead sprayed them with white, given them a coat of Future floor wax and treated the panel
lines with oil paint. And I’ve also come in,
added decal stripes, just some decal that I cut out of a sheet. Now, the weapons pylons I’ve
given the same treatment as the rest of the model. I’ve given them a wash, some dry brushing, a little bit of forced panel
lines when I airbrushed them, also come and taken some 48
scale decals from a MiG kit and added some small stencil. Well that’s it. If you like, you can enter your jet in local or national hobby contests. Your local hobby shop will fill you in on the contest information. Remember though, we do
this mostly for fun. Thanks for watching Video Workbench. I’m Chris Wilson and
we’ll see you next time. (upbeat music)

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