Introduction to Milk Paint

– Well, now we’re going
to apply the finish to the toy chest, and I’ve
got my lovely wife, Nicole, here with me. – Hello. – She’s actually going to do the painting. The thing is she wants it painted. I tend to not like
painted pieces, so I said, “Look, you want it painted, lady. “You’re doing it yourself.” – I will do it myself. – And that’s why she’s here. All right, and what we’re going to use is a product called Milk Paint. Now, true Milk Paint
is really interesting. It actually predates
history, recorded history. This is stuff that was
used back in ancient times because it’s a very basic formulation made with milk protein, lime, and then pigments added for color. All right, so it’s actually
a pretty durable finish, but we will be adding an
additional water-based acrylic on top of it for extra protection because it’s going to be around a toddler. – Yes. – So just in case. – He does like milk. – He does enjoy milk (Nicole laughs). He might start trying to
liquefy this stuff and drink it. We’ll catch them over there just going (Nicole laughs) ble, ble, ble, licking it, so, yeah, protect it. It’s usually not very water-resistant, so some of water-based
polyurethane is a good choice. All right, so we’re going to mix it up. I’m actually getting the heck out of here. This is all you now. – It’s me, let’s go. – Have a good time. – [Husband] Milk Paint comes
in all kinds of colors, and you can mix them to your liking. We’re using one scoop of white
with one scoop of pumpkin, the color my son picked out. Mix the colors thoroughly, and then add an equal amount of water, and
warm water seems to work best. Add about three-quarters of the water, and mix to a consistent paste. Then, add the remaining water to get a nice paint-able consistency. Yes, a round bowl (laughs) would have been much easier to work with. The great thing about Milk Paint is that you can dilute it as far as you want, anywhere from a light stain effect to a heavy thick coat of paint. We decide to add in a
product called Extra Bond, which should help the first coat bind better to the Birch
plywood in our toy chest. One scoop will do. Now, next for a few
minutes, and be patient. Once mixed thoroughly, let the paint sit for about 10 minutes. We’re going for a bit of a rustic look, so inexpensive chip brushes do the trick, and we don’t feel the need to be too careful about
hiding brush marks. If you’re new to Milk Paint,
start on the bottom of the case so that you can get to know the product. As the paint dries, it should take on a dull, chalky appearance. We’re painting the entire
case, inside and out. After a few hours, the
first coat can be sanded. Now, no one likes sanding,
but Nicole’s a champ, and she doesn’t mind
getting her hands dirty. Vacuum the dust with a
soft brush attachment, and then mix up another batch of paint. Two things are different this time. We no longer need the Extra Bond product, and we’re leaving out the white color. We didn’t really like the color as much as we thought we would, which is something that
can definitely happen with Milk Paint. You’ll find the second coat goes on much easier than the first. After an overnight dry time, we get some acrylic
water-based Poly Ready. We don’t want much of a shine,
so satin will do nicely. Coat the entire project thoroughly with a decent synthetic bristle brush. Keep in mind is the first
coat will look like crap. Don’t fret. (laughs) Once the first coat dries,
give it a light sanding with 320 grit, and then proceed with the second and final coat. The second coat looks much
more even and consistent, but since we’re dealing with Milk Paint, don’t expect perfection. This is a much more earthy
product than most are used to.

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