Leather Shoe Care: Daubers, Brushes & Chamois – Q&A 21 | Kirby Allison

Hi, I’m Kirby Allison! Thank you for all
your comments and questions that you guys have posted on our YouTube channel.
After reading them all and answering as many as possible I’ve selected five that
we’re gonna feature in today’s Q&A video. Each of these individuals I have
selected will receive a complimentary pair of our Sovereign Grade shoelaces as
a token of our appreciation for their participation in our channel. In today’s
Q&A video I’m going to be answering your questions about Brushes, Daubers, and
Chamois. Remember if you have any questions or comments while you’re
watching one of our videos please ask them in the comment section below. I try
to get back to as many of these questions as possible. Our first question
today is from Cameron Scott, and it reads how would you recommend getting polish
into the area near where the upper meets the sole? That’s kind of a funky area to
polish without getting pigment polish on to the edge. Should you just go over it
and expect it to buff out? So Cameron great question. Actually that is one of
the most important yet overlooked parts of the shoe that requires polishing. The
area you’re referring to as the welt that on a Goodyear welted shoe is where
the outsole is stitched to that allows the shoe to be easily resold. The reason
it’s important to polish that area of the shoe with a little bit of neutral
wax and polish is because the solvents help clean that welt which is really
prone to the accumulation of dirt and the hard waxes just help seal that welt
to further waterproof the shoe from any type of water damage. Now here at the
hanger project we sell a brush specifically for getting into that area
of the shoe and we just call it our welt diver. It’s a very fine dauber that just
allows you to kind of focus that polish in and around that area and it’s
actually the first part of the shoe that I recommend you clean because if you do
get any of the nutria wax polish on the upper itself you can easily buff that
out during the shoe shine process. Now if you don’t have a welt brush you can
always use a toothbrush or any other type of dauber that’s just gonna allow
you to get into that area of the shoe. Great question, and I always recommend
that part of a thorough shoeshine routine that you just take a little bit
of neutral wax polish welt dauber and really just gently
brush that area to clean it and also apply those hard waxes to help protect
the wilt. Our second question is from Alexander Chan, and it reads do you have
to polish the shoe with a high shine cloth or can you use the horsehair brush
you use to wipe off your cream? So the high shine chamois is really just
something that is very useful if you’re trying to create a really high shine on
the toe or the rear of the shoe those hard countered areas that don’t flex. But
otherwise isn’t necessary for just a normal ordinary shoe shine. A horsehair
brush the same horse hair brush that you use to buff the cream polishes to a
shine can also be used to buff a wax polishes to a shine. Because of the
higher concentration of hard waxes in a traditional wax polish you’re going to
be able to achieve a higher shine with the horsehair brush than you would with
a cream polish. We always recommend one to two applications of a cream polish
for the primary care of your shoes because again a Saphir Pommadier Cream
Polish is going to have the highest concentration of pigments to kind of
research rate and rejuvenate the finish of the shoe, but also the soft wax is and
the nutrients are going to do a better job conditioning the leather. The hard
wax polish is really more for just that high shine. It’s something for finishing.
It’s completely optional and after you apply the cream polish if you want to
elevate the shine further you can apply one or two coats of the Saphir Pate De Luxe wax polish to the entire shoe and buff it with a horsehair brush. Now if you’re
looking for a higher shine than what you’re able to achieve with the
horsehair brush that’s whenever you need to bring in a chamois and there’s no
better chamois for creating a high shine than our Hanger Project High Shine Chamois.
If you have any questions about how to use our Hanger Project High Shine
Chamois or how to elevate that shine even higher take a look at our series on
how to create a mirror shine. Our Berluti shoe shine video is also a great video that shows you how you can create a nice high shine using only wax
and our high shine chamois. Our third question today is from Kris
B.D. and his question reads wondering how you clean up your brushes, daubers, and
chamois? So we actually have a video on how to clean
brushes and we’re filming a video very soon about how to clean daubers. You want
to have two brushes a part of your shoeshine kit . You want one brush that
you use for your dark polishes and one brush that you use for your lighter
brushes. Now the reason that you see brushes made out of a dark bristle and
a light bristle isn’t because those bristles have any different properties
but it’s just to help you more easily recognize which brush you’re using for
your dark polishes and which brush you’re using for your light polishes. The
reason that that’s important is because all shoeshine brushes are going to
accumulate residual polish and so if you take a brush that you just used to buff
off some black Pommadier cream polish off your shoe and then you buff a light
brown pair of shoes you’re gonna see streaking and so that’s why you want to
separate those polishes to ensure that you’re not going to streak any of your
lighter colored shoes. Now residual shoe polish on your shoeshine brush isn’t a
problem in and of itself as long as you’re careful not to contaminate those
with different color leathers. If you’re looking to remove any of those residual
polishes the easiest thing to do is to just take your brush and gently buff a
cotton chamois and it’s just going to help clean off any of those residual
polishes from your from your shoeshine brush. Now chamois can be washed and
honestly with the exception of our high shine chamois which we don’t recommend
washing a general kind of cotton plus chamois the more times you wash it the
better it gets and so what we recommend for washing is just simply washing this
alone in a washing machine with like detergent not heavy detergent and you
can even hand wash this a tumble drying this with some other towels is perfectly
acceptable and the more times you wash your plush cotton chamois the more
absorbent it’s going to become while you’re using it. Cleaning daubers is a
little bit of a different deal. Now you can use a shoeshine dauber to apply your
cream and wax polishes if you don’t want to dirty any of your hands. Now all the
Saphir Medaille d’Or polishes are such high quality that you could easily apply
them with your hands without any risk to your skin because again there are no
petroleum products used in any of the Saphir Medaille d’Or products
but if you prefer to use a Dauber maybe because you’re using it for your welt or
you’re just like using a dauber the easiest way to clean the dauber is
honestly with a little bit of the Saffir Reno’Mat because that Reno’Mat is going
to remove those waxes and pigments. So what I recommend is just putting a
little bit of Reno mat in your hand, you know working the polish off under a sink,
and just washing this under a sink until you get as much of that gunk to polish
off of your dauber. Our fourth question today is from Beement, and it reads
can I apply the Saphir Saddle Soap with The Cotton Chamois? The short answer is
no. You really don’t want to use a cotton chamois to apply your saddle soap
because you’re not able to really work up a lather with the cotton chamois the
same way you can with the dauber. Now we have a Dauber that we developed
exclusively for the use with our leather cleaning soap. We call it our large or
extra large deluxe dauber. Now you can see it has a very large head. We use a
hundred percent horse tail on this dauber with a really high density
pinning and this is a great dauber to use with your leather cleaning soap because
it allows you to very quickly and easily work up a nice lather to really work
that leather cleaning soap into the shoe itself now quickly and efficiently. Now
you can see you know compared to the size of our standard dauber you have a
significant amount of increased surface area and actually the dauber that Saphir
gives you for free with some of their products is actually
a welt diver and if you can imagine trying to shampoo your shoes with this
versus that it makes a tremendous difference. So this is a product I really
recommend everyone add to their accoutrements
to their assortment. It can be used just as effectively with the Omni’Nettoyant
which is a suede cleaner. This is just a great cleaning brush. Our last question
today is from Jimbad05, and it reads how should I clean the welt of a shoe
with the Dauber? So, Jim great question! So I’ve got my first pair of Bespoke
George Cleverley shoes. It was a medallion whole cut in Burgundy and as
you can see it’s been a while since I’ve shined this shoe and there’s a little
bit of dirt beginning to accumulate across the welt. To clean the welt you
need a welt brush and a neutral wax polish. Here I have my Saphir Pate De Luxe
Medaille d’Or Polish. Now the reason you want to use a neutral because there’s
no pigment but you still get those a high concentration of hard waxes and
solvents that’s great for cleaning. So apply a little bit of the wax polish on
your welt dauber and then you just want to be careful to kind of work that into
the welt. Now there’s two benefits of using a welt dauber and some wax polish.
First the solvents in a wax polish are gonna help clean any dirt that’s
accumulated in the welt. The hard waxes are then going to seal that well thread
and to ensure that it just remains waterproof…
and then lastly as an added bonus you’re even going to get some wax polish on the
edge itself which is a great way to just elevate the shine of the edge. So after
you’ve applied this and I like to do this as the first step in a shoeshine
routine because then if I get any wax polish on the upper I can just buff that
off during the shoeshine process. So after you have applied the neutral wax
polish allow it to dry. You can either rebuff it with your welt dauber or
sometimes I’ll just use a pig bristle brush because again I’m still able to
get these bristles into that welt and you just buff that until it just comes
to a nice soft shine and is clean…and you know as you can see very easy. This
welt is a significantly more clean than the other side. So welt care, welt and
edges I feel like really are the you know the last element of really
elevating your shoe shine to that really a high level. You know edges and heels
are so often neglected it’s a topic that’s very interesting to me on the
best way to take care of those. We’ve got some videos on the topic already and
you’ll probably see more videos on advanced well and edge care coming this
way. Here at The Hanger Project I’m proud to have the largest collection of luxury
shoe shine brushes, daubers, and chamois in the world. All these products that
I’ve shown you today are course available on Hangerproject.com, as well
as extensive in-depth guidance on how to use them. If you have any questions of
course don’t ever hesitate to reach out to customer service.
I’d like to take a moment to thank everyone for their comments and
questions. It’s your engagement on our YouTube channel that make these Q&A
videos possible. Not only do these Q&A videos give me an opportunity to answer
in greater depth a lot of the questions that I’m already answering but they
allow me to take a moment to just acknowledge my appreciation for all of
your participation in our channel. I’ve absolutely enjoyed this platform and how
it’s allowed me to connect more directly with all of you and I really have fun
interacting with you and answering your questions. If you haven’t taken an
opportunity to ask a question or make a comment on our channel I invite you to
do so even if you don’t have any questions to
ask just sharing your opinion or your thoughts about our content help us make
better videos for you. In today’s video I’m wearing a Suit Supply sports coat
that is actually unlined and made with vitality barbarous fabric. Absolutely
beautiful navy jacket that is perfect for a Texas summer. I’m wearing a Kent
Wang pocket square and one of our new Kirby Allison Sovereign Grade Ancient
Madder Ties. Of course I have my Trademark Wide Charvet shirt, a pair of
My Tailor or Him or Johnny Brother khaki chinos that I had made with a single
reverse pleat and a tab trouser. These khakis are great for a little bit more
of a casual look and feature 1-inch turnips or cuffs. I’m wearing a pair of
olive green Kirby Allison’s Sovereign Grade socks and my Bespoke George
Cleverly Russian Reindeer split toed Derbies. If you enjoyed this video give
us a thumbs up and please subscribe to our Channel and turn on your
notifications by clicking the bell to the right of the subscribe button so
that you can learn whenever we release new videos. If you have any questions or
comments about anything we discussed on this video please ask them in the
comment section below and of course please visit Hangerproject.com where
we have the largest most comprehensive collection of luxury garment care and
shoe care accessories in the world as well as many other incredible products
for the well-dressed and while you are there subscribe to our newsletter to
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digest of all the videos we publish here on our YouTube channel. I’m Kirby Allison
and we love helping the well-dressed take care of their wardrobes.


  • Diego Delgado


  • Konrad-Allan Brown

    Hey Kirby, thank you for the excellent content as usual. We're still waiting for that tie knot video; that tie and pocket square combo for this video is absolutely sublime. Have a great weekend.

  • VGR

    Nice glasses, suits you really good!

  • Oscar Ortez

    Hello Kirby, what is best to dress shoes. flat or round laces?

  • Sina Faraji

    Hi Kirby, Thanks for the helpful videos as always. I had a question regarding the styling of Leather Jackets. Can you please also have a video on what goes best with leather jackets and how should the color combinations be? etc. Do you also recommend them as a choice for a well-dressed gentleman? Thanks

  • Alexandre Ung

    To maintain the welt of a cordovan shoe would you recommend using the mirror gloss wax instead of the neutral pâte deluxe to minimize the risk of inserting solvents in the upper when applying the wax?

  • Brian Ipock

    Hey Kirby, Thank you for your awesome info and products. I just wanted to mention a tip that I don't think you have mentioned, if you store your polish upside down, the oils will move more to the surface of the wax, both reducing it drying out over time while stored and provide a better penetration into the leather. What are your thoughts on heel and sole, I went to a military college and we used this liberally on our shoes for inspection.

  • Kelly Taber

    Hey Kirby,

    I agree completely with konradallan on that pocket square. Where did you get it?

    Also, have you done a video on how and when to use saddle soap?


  • Milo Booth

    Hi! I used to put Kiwi polish on my shoes.. is it absolutely necessary to remove it in order to apply the Saphir shoe wax, or would it be just fine? The Saphir Renomat is not available in our place.

  • Mr Barbarossa

    You got a big like from me

  • Samuel chui

    Hey Kirby, Thank you for another informative video. One question with the cleaning daubers do you also recommend getting two for dark and light shoes or is just one fine for all shoes as it's just for cleaning.

  • Jack Gillespie

    Thank you for such great content, Kirby. I've just discovered your channel and immediately subscribed. I have a question: How do you get waxes out of the broguing on Wingtips, Cap Toes, etc.? Thanks again!

  • popmahn

    Hi Kirby. How do you clean your chamois? What detergent/cleaner do you use?

  • Corium

    Dear Kirby,
    could you please explain, how exactly you wrap a high shine chamois around your fingers and how you fix it? If I try so, I can only keep it fixed a few seconds.
    Thank you very much in advance.

  • T M

    Mike Ross is that you?

  • Glen Converse

    I really needed to watch this video. It answered a lot of my concerns with shoe care. I've love all of your video, wherein I've been educated on the zenith of shoe care. Thank you!

  • Gunther Kruger

    Only in America could we expect such detail on what we might think are mundane issues. Love your attention to detail, I have learned so much. Great stuff.

  • Enoc Estrada Avila

    Which hairbrush size is the most effective or easiest to use?

  • Sophie Shenkal

    How do you determine which color of polish to choose for your shoes?

  • Adrian Montero

    How often do I need to use leather conditioner?

  • sborn1571

    Fantastic informative video.

  • Sam I am

    Saphir Salesman?

  • Murdock Oliver

    Thank you for doing what you do sir.
    I had a daughter who I love without limits!! But I’d love to be able to share the ‘gentlemen’s arts’ like my father and grandfather did with me. I really like your channel & I hope you keep on doing what you do because it’s inspired me to ‘shine’ a little better & remember why I was raised a gentleman!! CARRY ON DOING YOUR THING!! We are listening and watching!!

  • Karim El-Zein

    Amazing questions and answers. Had several realizations just when i thought i was getting really good


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