Painting Rust – Soviet Ball Tank “Sharotank” (Miniart 1/35 Scale Model Weathering Tutorial)


So, do you guys remember the last episode when I said I’m gonna apply some light amounts of teeny-tiny rust effects? Well… I lied. What you gonna do? I like mixing my rust tones from pigments,
enamels and oil paints. Each component gives the mixture its own unique properties which I might explain in a separate video if you guys are
interested. This time I don’t have any exact mixing ratio so every mixture I
make is slightly different. The entire process is very straightforward
apply the rust tone over most, like 98% of the chips. Note how the amount of rust is
quite limited. You don’t want to cover the entire surface with it. Then clean your brush and start blending. It’s important to clean the brush often,
otherwise you would flood the surface with paint trapped in its bristles. The mixture is leaving some light
colored stains on the dark brown parts. I will address this in a minute. Let’s add
some more now. You can add more enamel thinner to the mixture if you want to. It will make the rust less opaque. I think it’s very important how you blend the rust. I am using only small amount of thinner and I’m just feathering the edges of the rust spots. If you just went over the entire spot with a brush, you would wipe away most of the effect. I only do that when I feel there’s too
much rust and I want to tone down the effect. That’s also why I’m covering almost all the chips, because some of that rust will be removed while I’m blending. Now I took a dry soft brush and went
over the dark camouflage parts to smoothen out the stains. I believe these happened because of the light orange pigment. The dark brown makes the effect more visible than the lighter green paint. It’s easy to remove them if you do this soon enough, like, right after you’re done
with blending. And because the rest of the video will be the same technique done in different places, I’m gonna talk more about theory and just stuff… So, first thing is… Why? Why I’m adding so much rust in the first place? It’s a functional tank after all, not a wreck. Well, the reason is the chipping and the
rust makes the model look like it’s actually made from steel. Like it’s not a
plastic toy, but actual thing made from metal. Also the chips themselves look just like fine brushstrokes on their own nothing more. So the rust makes them look more finished. I first did this in 2013 on my ISU 122 model when I was
experimenting with Mike Rinaldi’s oil paint rendering technique and I felt
like, you know, the surface was very nice and all, but the chips, they were missing
something. They felt like they were just working progress. So I painted some rust
over them and Boom! Then there’s the amount. It’s too much! It’s gonna look like an abandoned vehicle, you might say. Yes, the model will somewhat look like
that, but from my experience the rust gets heavily toned down by earth effects,
just like on this T-34. You obviously need to think a few steps ahead because if you… for example… want the model rather clean, then the dust stones won’t do you
much favor. So in that case you should keep the rust more limited So, why I’m mixing so many things
together instead of using a single product? Well, like I said, each component
A.K.A. the pigment, oil paint and enamel paint has its own specific properties.
And I would like to have all of them. The entire thing is a bit more complicated
so I can make a specific video about this in the future if you guys want to,
but in short: oil paints have a lot of pigment and they blend beautifully
because of the linseed oil in them, but they blend too perfectly for the effect I’m after. They also dry slowly. Enamels, on the
other hand, dry faster, hold stronger, but they don’t have that much pigment in
them and sometimes when they dry they leave a glossy stain here and there,
especially if they were applied in a thicker layer. They also blend into a more random effect, which is what we should be after. And the pigment, well, I obviously used it to make the mixture lighter, but also it will give the paint
some texture. I’m talking like, microscopic texture, but it will give the rust very authentic look like it’s actual rust in 1/35 scale, not just rust
colored paint. And the last thing is… is it realistic? Does armor rust so fast? Would the authorities allow this to happen? Is there life on other planets? I don’t know and I’m perfectly okay with that. I enjoy doing it, the model looks more finished and more complex and it’s fun. It is plausible, because we see effects like
this in everyday life and that to me is more important than science and
chemistry and whatever… I’m not gonna say that it’s a what-if model and anything is possible there, because I believe what-if tanks should be painted with the same
approach as any other vehicle. There should be at least some logic and common sense behind it. And I do this on every model. Even
someone who doesn’t know anything about military vehicles should understand
what’s going on on the surface, because they will think, like: “yeah, yeah, the paint
is chipped and there’s some rust and I saw that the other day on that bulldozer
parked at that construction site” and I think that’s the goal. To make the model
clearly understandable and interesting to look at. Poof, that was a bit more
philosophical than I wanted… Okay, so in the next episode I will paint the road
wheels, machine guns, headlight, exhaust, some streaking effects and stuff like
that. And let me guys know what you think about rust effects in the comments below. Thank you all for watching and I’ll see you mates in the next one.

21 comments

  • Night Shift

    So what do you guys think about rust effects on models that represent functional, in-service vehicles? Yay or nay?

    Reply
  • Roman Fialka

    comment before 100K subs!

    Reply
  • Marian Cihoň

    Often the effects on armour are artsy and they can be closer to overweathered then realistic. Airplanes on the other hand are mostly underweathered. And I think we tend to accept that. Trends in weathering armour are quite clear – more is better.

    Reply
  • Алексей Тищенко

    Suerb work Martin!!!

    Reply
  • Mitko Nikitov

    Yay!

    Reply
  • Vyacheslav Simonov

    Nice videos with your balls, Martin, Like&Subscribe!

    Reply
  • Oscar EC

    Love it mate! Subtle but powerful effect. And easy to apply and blend!

    Reply
  • Tomek B

    very realistic:)

    Reply
  • Will Thorson

    If you do everything not gigantic but in scale it is wonderful. the issue is people going WAY overboard on colors and textures. Good job so far…

    Reply
  • Michal Jurzysta

    Yay! Even modern vehicles rust and oxidize easily. I believe it's all about restrain and logic (feels like I'm quoting you from the video Martin!) and enjoying what you do when it comes to all parts of modelling not only rust and weathering. Love the series so far and I look forward to the rest. I have learned a lot so far, so Thank You!

    Reply
  • Spinsquiggle

    The rust effects look awesome!

    Reply
  • Small Soldier

    Really nice work. I like your style and the fact that you present this as an artistic venture as well as trying to achieve reality at the same time. Excellent video production and I can tell you're a very good and creative modeller. I really appreciate how you present your work and know how much work goes into making one of these as I'm a YouTube military modeller as well. I really enjoyed that and have subbed. If you have a minute pop over and check my channel out. You also add humour which I like and present quite often on my channel as well. Cheers, Scott

    Reply
  • Simon Fejta

    I haven't seen this t 34 before (4:48)What is that? 🙂

    Reply
  • John Hunsberger

    I have a question. In other videos I've watched on rust effects the authors added streaking to indicate where the rust has been migrating with the exposure to the elements. Do you think this would apply to the technique you just presented? If so, how much would you streak? Thanks.

    Reply
  • Pasi Hotti

    100 thumb! You can transfer the price money to my bank account. 😉

    Reply
  • HL 17

    funny thing about the rust, it actually happen the same to me too, look at normal dark brown chipping, i feel something off, look at the real rust i feel it have a very light orange tone and even seem sip out of the brown chipping into the paint too. But i not think about using enamel like you do (i wish i think about that sooner) but a light rush acrylic wash, a bit messy, but far more real. That also my fist build and weathering tank too

    Reply
  • Grasshopper K

    6:30 to answer, 90% or the care for a vehicle, especially during war time, was down to crew maintenance. Add this with the era, and Soviet nature. The paints and steel itself are more likely to rust. This doesn't specifically affect the armour, as the plates would be through hardened, rather than surface (the same as case) hardened. If you do ever get to get your hands on a modern field operating vehicle, such as a leopard. You'll see though, even with protective paints, any anodising, and tarps or drapes covering the vehicle, the under carriage and track areas, will still gather rust in small amounts, where the water pools and wet debre collect the most. Where the water has had the most time to seep into any steel, that has had any protective coats removed.
    The location and weather can also affect it. Russian terrain can be heavily mudded, and this soil tends to have a respectively acidic nature. Where as more gravel and grain based soils retain far less water, and stick to surfaces a lot less. These will cause those origional surface coat chips you made though. That still have the primer (the base coat) underneath.

    Vehicles kept inside more often though, or in places like central Europe, will have minimal to no rust in comparison. I've seen a Vintage car in Germany that was bought in 1952 brand new. I saw it in 2017, 100% stock, and completely origional, there were 3 tiny chips in the paint that we were shown. The leather and fabric, all pristine. It had sat in a well built wooden garage with a light fabric dust cover (which is important, because water proofing covers left on over long periods, can actually trap air moisture during dryer weather) since the mid 60's. My friend took it out when his Dad was moving, and he took it out for a spin with him.
    In Ireland; there's FAR more salt in the air, any garage with even minimal air access, would cause some form of rusting, or paint damage.

    So to go back to your Q. For a soviet vehicle, and the time, that much rust is quite alright. There's no point taking a vehicle out of service, just because of a little surface rusting.
    A Bundeswehr vehicle would have had a better coating material, and likely better weather and environmental conditions. They also would have been kept in closed garages more often. (although I accept, in 1955 the vast majority of Bundeswehr armour were American imports, the paint and primers were still better at protecting surfaces).
    After a year of service, I'd say a soviet vehicle in the field would look pretty much as rusted as you've painted.
    That hull design has quite a lot of low to the ground surface area.

    Reply
  • bartek1234567890

    It's all wrong! Red Army used this tank to impact Moon, there's no water on Moon, so there should not be rust! Just kidding, great work on this hamster tank 🙂

    Reply
  • katyushof

    Rusty phrog

    Reply
  • Mikey R

    Hey Martin, you mentioned "what if" tanks in your philosophising. I'd love to see you paint a science fiction tank, such as a Land Raider or Leman Russ tank from 40k.

    These tanks would be interesting, because many have been in service for thousands of years, lovingly if roughly maintained by their technicians and crew. I'd love to see what you think a tank would look like after it has actively served for so long?

    Reply
  • Aaron

    More R-U-S-T!

    Reply

Leave a Reply

Your email address will not be published. Required fields are marked *