One of our most popular videos is our salt
chipping film where we weather a Tamiya VW Beetle to look battered and rusty. We built it because we like to take an occasional
break from military subjects to practice our painting techniques. We thought we’d show you another similar
project, the complete build of this 1:24th scale Revell Golf GTi. We promised it in an earlier video and so
here it is – broken down into parts with a bit more detail and commentary. The idea is to once again make a ratty vehicle. Firstly, it’s worth stating that this is
a great kit. It was released by Revell in 2014 and appears to boast all-new mouldings
and parts. Let’s get started with the build. After a quick scan through the parts, we prepare
our tools. They are all pretty standard for any modeller Sprue cutters
Tweezers Craft knives
A pin vice for drilling And sanding sticks for clean up. We tend to build by tackling several stages
at once. Removing all the parts and getting them ready
for filling and clean-up. We are going to be removing mould lines and
flash, as well as sanding down the moulding
stubs. Here you can see the clean-up in progress. There are some sink marks here and there – that
we filled with putty. The body shell looks high-quality but there are fine mould lines that need careful sanding to remove. We tackle these with a selection of different
grades of sanding stick from Squadron. Then, it’s time to restore shine to the
shell using some polishing compound and plastic polish. Next, we decided to add some more detail to
the panel lines. To do this, a tool from RB Productions called
the “Scribe-R” was used It comes as photo-etch parts and you assemble
it yourself. Ending up with this. It makes it easy to makes the panel lines
more pronounced. As our Golf was going to be really battered,
it seemed fitting to add some dents and damage. This was done with a fairly cheap soldering
iron. Very gently, the plastic was heated and melted.
Sometimes, rounded tools like these were used to create dents. Other times, the plastic was melted directly. Any plastic build-up can be sanded away and
any damage filled and smoothed with sanding. To get the sorts of holes seen in rusty panels,
we attacked the plastic from behind with a mini-drill and burr. When the plastic is thinned, you can puncture
easily it with a blade or drill bit. Here you can see us sanding, filling and sanding
again to get the look and finish we’re after. After a bit of work, this is the result. When we make a car, we like to get painting
as quickly as possible, so the body shell was prepared for some paint. To create a rust base, Ammo by Mig acrylic
primers were used. Just build up gentle coats by airbrush to
get even coverage. It’s time now to get the panels to look
different and weathered. Using Lifecolor acrylics from their Rust and Dust diorama set, we mask off and prepare to spray panels in different tones. You can see us spraying through a gauze on
some panels to get a mottled effect. You can find out more about this technique in our
other videos. It’s worth remembering that, this will be
painted over and then chipped, so the effect doesn’t have to be perfect. To get specks and dots of rust all other the
car, Lifecolor rust shades are stippled on with the airbrush set at minimal pressure. In order to protect the paint from what’s
to come, we seal with Johnson’s Klear floor polish. The look we were after involves having some
parts that have been exchanged, so with the tailgate, we wanted to show a replacement
part in red. After masking, we used some AK Interactive
Heavy Chipping Solution and when dry added some water and rock salt. After a light spray in Tamiya Grey, the rock
salt was brushed off. Once the salt is removed, here’s what’s
left. Next, white was sprayed on in very thin coats. This time, we attacked the paint layers with
water – to get the Heavy Chipping Solution to react. Here’s the result. Damaged and corroded
paint. Time now to salt again before over spraying
with red. We mix the paint with Tamiya Lacquer thinner
– this will make it tougher but also it can be buffed easily to a high shine. The intention it to polish the Tamiya paint
after application to get a sheen. This will contrast nicely with the rusty panels. The roof is next, it will get a similar treatment. Water then rock salt in the centre. First grey is used over the top. Before repeating the whole process with an
off-white mixed from Tamiya paints. With the roof nicely weathered. it’s time
to end this part. We’ll pick up next time as we get the rest
of the body shell rusted and weathered. If you enjoyed this, remember you can hit
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  • PARBARS inScale.

    i LOVE these cars! i want to have once in RealLife 🙂


  • nodnodnod

    beautiful work and great tutorial, can't wait for the other parts to come.

  • Koutetsu Jeeg

    My drill!!! Finally someone using my same drill. Old but trusty!

  • Duececoupe

    Phenomenonal looking cars….especially love the beetle!
    Another excellent video! ???

  • buildit1/35 wright

    more videos like this would be great waiting for the next one GET-R- DONE

  • Robert Riley

    Love these videos. I’ve learnt so much from watching your rusting techniques. Fantastic and enjoyable. Thanks for sharing

  • cuove

    this is awesome

  • Carl Hosp

    What is the gauze that you use when you when creating your dried rust effect with the airbrush?

  • James Butler

    Using the salt technique,it really does give you the rusty weathered look.Great video.Thanks for sharing.

  • Franky goes to Hobbywood

    a great "how to" video..!

  • Antonio Navalon Martinez



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