REALISTIC AMETHYSTS USING COLORED PENCILS (VOSTFR) – How to draw Gemstones with prismacolors


We’re going to use a step-by-step method to
draw and color realistic gemstones with colored pencils.
By the end of this video, you will learn how to shape gemstones with ease, make them look
realistic with color and I’ll tell you how you can use them to complement a drawing or
a coloring page. The project we are working on today will also help sharpen your observation
skills and with the tips I’m going to give you, you will be able to draw and color realistic
gemstones of all shapes and colors from scratch. Hi, my name is Francoise, welcome to my channel
for tips and tricks to color with a twist! The only supplies you will need are : A
coloring page, a piece of paper, or a sketch book. I prefer smooth paper for my realistic
work but for practice, you can use anything you have. For my practice sketch and drawing,
I am using this notebook. As you can see, this is not drawing paper since the lining
shows through but it still works ! And for my coloring, I printed this page out from
a pdf file I got from the Mariola Budek Etsy store onto Strathmore smooth paper, which
is an artist quality paper. So as you can see, I used 2 very different types of paper
but that didn’t affect my drawing too much. You will also need : A mechanical pencil or
sharpened graphite pencil for the sketch. A few colored pencils. I’m using a monochrome
palette here, all pencils are Prismacolor premier colored pencils, but you can use any
brand you like. A blender, or white colored pencil. I’m using the white Prismacolor pencil
because it’s creamy and blends colors together well. You can use another white colored pencil
or a blender if you have one but I’d recommend wax-based pencils like the Prismacolors are.
They will work better here than oil-based pencils, because these are a creamier type
that’s just easier to blend. And finally, a set of erasers. I’m using a regular Faber-Castell
eraser for mess-ups, a kneaded eraser to fade the initial sketch and a Tombow Mono Eraser
for the highlights. If you don’t own the last two, you should be able to manage anyways,
and I’ll show you how. I’m happily sharing these techniques because they are working
great for me and produce results I love, but there are many other ways to proceed and there
is no right or wrong way to do this as long as it’s enjoyable and satisfying. The first
step is to find a reference picture. This will help you observe how gemstones are shaped
and guide you through the whole coloring process. When I work from a reference, I like to go
to free stock photos websites, that way, I know I can copy pictures to learn and improve
my art with the artist’s consent and not risk being flagged for copyright infringement.
My favorite sites among all the ones you can find are Unsplash, Pixabay and Pexels, which
I’ll link in the description. If you use their photos and display your art on social media,
it’s still good practice to credit the photographer if you have their name. So, this is the picture
I picked to learn how to craft gemstones on paper. I chose that one because there’s a
pretty good contrast to practice here with really dark and really light areas. A great
way to work on contrast for more realism. The second step is to sketch the gemstones.
As you can see from my reference photo, gemstones are fairly easy to reproduce because they
are made of a combination of shapes, mostly geometrical. And it doesn’t matter whether
you copy them exactly or not, unlike it would for a human face for instance. Gemstones can
be drawn completely geometrical if you like it that way, or the lines can be a little
more crooked in places like they appear to be on my reference. Shape unevenness will
add to a more realistic look so that’s what I’m going to go for here and really not worry
too much about making an exact copy. Now, you can make up plenty of different gemstones
from basic 3D shapes based on triangles, squares, rectangles or even circles. On top are examples
of perfectly geometrical gemstones, and at the bottom, the same type of gemstones with
less straight lines and a more authentic look. Be aware that right now, I’m sketching with
a heavy hand for you to see what I’m doing, but I would normally use very little pressure
to avoid harsh lines that are going to be hard to erase. To draw these shapes, proceed
triangle after triangle, or rectangle after rectangle for instance, connecting the dots
to make them touch and form a 3D shape. Try to focus on the “shape” you see on the reference,
not on what it actually represents. Break the bigger shapes down into all the smaller
ones you see within. It’s hard to forget about what the picture represents at first, but
it really helps getting a sketch to be accurate without stressing about the whole process.
Now we know how to shape gemstones, let’s draw them closer to each other just like that.
Small crevices are interesting to add in between them if you go for the realistic version of
it, since it will help build contrast and make the stones appear bumpy in places, hollow
in others and so on. We will darken up the crevices as much as possible to achieve the
effect of a hollow area. Final tip for the sketching part, lighten
up your sketch lines with a kneaded eraser once you are ready to color, by applying gentle
pressure on the pencil strokes with the eraser. If you don’t have a kneaded eraser, you may
still use a regular one. It is a little less convenient and more likely to damage the paper
a bit but it works. You will see best results if you sketched with a light hand in the first
place, no matter how good your eraser is, what type or what shape it is. Now, it’s time
to color our gemstones ! Layering is key to getting a wide variety of shades and a nice
blend for a beautiful look. I selected three colors to layer in order to create the purple
gemstones in my reference. I chose : Lavender (PC934), Dahlia purple (PC1009) and Dark purple
(PC 931). The reason for this is working with only 3 colors is made possible here because
this is a monochrome image. It’s a lot easier to proceed this way if you are new at coloring
and want to practice blending and shading without having to work with a bunch of colors.
By using my color chart as well as a piece of paper, I found these three would look good
together and be easy to use since one of them is light, one is much darker, and the last
one places in between, all in the same kind of color range.
What I like to do is apply a first layer of my lightest color, which here is Lavender.
I am going to proceed shape by shape because if I start covering all of one gemstone with
a layer of lavender, I will not know where the orignal sketching lines are. I’m going
to use this color as a base layer for everything but the sharpest of white highlights. Let’s
start here. When coloring, in the early layering stages especially, I use very light pressure
on my pencil and color in small circular motions. I also make sure the tip of it is really sharp,
it makes it easier to get into all the small crevices in the paper. I’m done with that
first layer of Lavender, and now I’m going to add a second one and overlap it to the
first everywhere but the lightest areas to keep those almost white. Now, I pick up the
Dahlia Purple pencil, which I consider to be my average color here, not too light, not
too dark. I overlap this onto my lavender shade, in all the areas of my reference except
for the white and light ones. I keep using circular motions and a light pressure all
the way. Just like I did for Lavender, I layer Dahlia purple once more wherever I feel the
average values I just placed are more on the darker side. Finally, I am going to use my
darkest color, the dark purple, which I keep for the darkest areas of my gemstone, overlapping
it once to my lavender and dahlia purple colors where the picture is dark, then once more
in the darkest of all spots. With only three colors, layered twice each in specific areas,
I am getting a really nice color variation range of 6 values plus white for the highlights.
The fun part, I don’t know what it is for you but for me, is to blend them all together.
I like to use my white Prismacolor pencil (PC 938).to do so. It’s so creamy I find it
very effective as a blender, even though it tends to tone down the colors a bit. There
are a lot of other ways and tools to blend colors I would like to perfect, which I will
cover in future videos, as I dive deeper into my own learning process. I love to study,
test and try new things, so feel free to suggest other ways to blend in the comments that you
would like to see an in-depth tutorial for. Let’s go back to my current blending technique.
I use my white colored pencil in the same way I did the others, except I tend to press
a little more. Making circular motions in really important here, as this will help drag
the pigment around and blend it effectively to others, avoiding leaving harsh variations
or wax buildup between our various shades. This also helps fill out the last crevices
that are left from the tooth of the paper. I personally like this smooth look a lot more
than the grainy one, but if you don’t, you should try using as gentle pressure as you
can while blending. If you are using a more textured paper and like the smooth look, you
may need to apply twice as many layers to get the same result. You know there are enough
layers when applying little pressure to blend feels like it’s enough.
On this particular drawing, I also went over the outer lines of each of my shapes with
the white Prismacolor to get them to look better defined, an angular and geometrical
look being part of the final outcome. I would not do this for a portrait and avoid marking
lines with any of my pencils whenever I can. Lines, once made with colored pencils, leave
some kind of dent in the paper and are really hard to hide, so I’d recommend to avoid them
as much as possible where geometry is not a part of the look you aim at. If you are
using a white pencil for the blending process and feel it’s toned your colors down too much,
there’s nothing wrong with adding one or two extra layers of your colors on top and blend
again. And if this is not the technique for you, you can find blenders that will not affect
the colors after blending, like this colorless pencil from Prismacolor. I use this one less
because I think it feels a bit scratchy compared to the white prisma, but it works fine too.
Once you break layering into small steps, it starts feeling like a more approachable
technique to practice, especially when using very few colors. And it’s exactly the same
for shading. Shading helps improve contrast and I know the term alone can seem intimidating
when you do not know where to start. It can be done little by little and stopped whenever
you are satisfied about the overall look of your drawing. Every time a gemstone overlaps
another one here, I like to make sure I emphasize the resulting shadow that appears underneath
with my dark purple pencil. Try to imagine how flat the same drawing would look without
this type of detail. I also make sure all sides of one gemstone don’t look the same
contrast-wise. The lightest ones emphasize the idea of light hitting them and color variation
on the other ones does the rest. You can go back to the reference picture and observe
it some more, as this appears very clearly on gems. Every time I add color for contrast,
I blend again with my white prisma to fade it into the rest. How do I add shadows to
the darkest spots ? Here, I managed to do it with the dark purple colored pencil, but
I could have gone a little further into it and used a darker color, same shade or not.
Sometimes, I’ll use a dark grey or even black for that purpose. When using such dark colors,
make sure you keep it discrete. By that I mean that in my experience I think it’s best
to overlap just a bit of the grey or black pencil on a small part of the dark area you
are targeting. If layered on the whole darker surface, it may look a bit harsh in contrast
to the rest since we are mainly working with luminous colors. Now on to highlights. How
do I get the highlighted spots this light ? Either I leave them blank or I add very
little color to them, but I still use my white pencil on them to melt the edges to the neighboring
sides. I also use my Tombow mono eraser to emphasize highlights here and there, if needed.
If you don’t have one of those, there’s a trick you can use. Get a regular cheaper eraser
and cut it to a sharp angle with a kitchen knife to form an edge that will help you erase
tiny areas, and use this instead. The pencil is still more convenient since you can see
where the tip lands much better and be more precise so if you get a chance to get one
I would recommend it. The sixth and final step is to take a break after you have completed
a few gemstones, take a step back and observe. Do you like the way it looks ? Are there areas
you need to improve ? Did the colors blend nicely and is there enough contrast ? Can
you see the design pop out of the page ? Take action to improve on anything you feel needs
more work and repeat this process for the whole piece. You will notice that after a
while, you won’t even need a reference picture to draw a gemstone. Once you have shaped a
few and you understand how to make them stand out from each other, it will seem much easier
and that is when you find you are able to include them to your drawings and colorings
really easily. My drawing, for instance, is far from perfect since it does not exactly
match the reference and misses a lot of the small highlights, but it still looks good
enough to my taste since I had never drawn gemstones before, and I find I got a great
training session for gemstones drawing in general. And last but not least, here are
a few tips on how you may use gemstones as a way to add interest to your work in progress.
On my coloring page, the idea of the gemstones came after I messed the skin up and was looking
for a way to cover it up. As you can see, I used them as clothing here, but I could
have used them as a way to texture the background for instance, or as ornaments or jewelry for
the hair or crown. Remember you can vary the number and size
of gemstones you are drawing, if you are patient and detail-oriented, you could also use them
as skin texture in places. You can also vary their shape and make them oval.On my notebook,
I simply copied them from the reference photo. And I realized there was a strong resemblance
to Corsica, except for the tip missing ! Meaning they can also help shape something else you
would like to draw by adding texture to it. There are a lot of ways to get creative with
them and taking action towards creating your own thing will lead to new ideas or happy
accidents like it did for me ! If there are any additional topics about drawing with colored
pencils you would like to know about, let me know in the comments down below. For a
glimpse into my work in progress and behind the scenes content, you may head over to my
instagram page, which I will link in the description If you liked that video, share it with your
friends and give it a thumbs up so I know to make more of this type of content, and
don’t forget to subscribe and hit the notification button to get notified of all future videos.
Thanks for watching !

2 comments

  • Blayac Fine Art

    What technique do you use to blend colored pencils ? What topics would you like me to cover when drawing or coloring with colored pencils ?

    Reply
  • Art and Colours

    Amazing drawing

    Reply

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