Sorastro’s Zombie Painting Guide Ep.1


Hello, and welcome to Sorastro’s
zombie painting video tutorial. This tutorial is aimed at a beginner painter but may also be of interest to the intermediate painter or anyone wishing to learn more about
how to use Army Painter’s Quickshade. I’m not a professional painter but hope to show you how we
can produce outstanding results, whilst saving a lot of time
by using the Quickshade method. We’re going to paint our zombies in four stages. Firstly, Prep & Spray. We’re going to be using a spray-on primer and
undercoat by Army Painter, called Necrotic Flesh. This will provide a great surface to paint on but also give us the perfect
base skin tone for our zombies. Secondly, we’re going to paint simple
flat base colours for clothes and hair. Thirdly, we’re going to apply the Quickshade, which comes in three shades,
and we’re using the Strong Tone shade. This will do all the hard work
of shading the miniature for us, producing a nice level of contrast, and resulting in a slightly weathered, dirty look, perfect for the recently undeceased. Finally, Finishing Touches. This will include adding some blood, glowing eyes, and I’ll be mounting my zombies
on some clear plastic bases. This tutorial will use figures from
the Zombicide board game, by CoolMiniOrNot, but the techniques should work equally
well on the Games Workshop or Mantic zombies or indeed other minis, such as these
Space Hulk Marines and Genestealers. Let’s get started. First, it’s always worth checking
the figures for any obvious mould lines and removing them with a file or by scraping
them off with the edge of craft knife. Next, we spray the figures with a primer. But first, I like to stick the figures
to some cardboard with White Tack, which makes them much
easier to rotate when spraying. This is especially useful
when spraying in large numbers. After giving the can a good shake
for at least 90 seconds, we spray the figures from no more than 20 cm away. We want to achieve good coverage, without over-spraying them to the point
that we begin to lose detail. Two or three blasts might be needed
to completely cover the miniature. Here, we can see that we’ve
achieved the coverage we wanted without losing any of the detail. Once the primer is dry, we’re ready to
apply our base colours to the clothes, hair, and basically anything that isn’t skin. I’m using Citadel paints and brushes by Rosemary & Co. These are from the series 33, pure Kolinsky range. I’m not a brush expert, but I think
they represent excellent value for money. If I had a bit more wallet, I’d also be
keen to try the Winsor & Newton brushes. I tend to use size 1 or 2 most of the time and maybe a size 0, 3/0, or 10/0 even
for the really fine details. One of the important things to bear
in mind about the Quickshade, which we’ll be applying in the next step,
is that it darkens the miniature. So it’s important to allow for that
when we choose our colours. So I will often use mid or light tones, as they turn up particularly well
once the Quickshade has been applied. It’s usually good practice to thin
the paint a little with some water, and we’re looking for nice, flat, neat, even coverage. Every paint range and every colour will be different, but colours with high pigmentation,
such as the Citadel base colours, may provide the coverage we want with just one coat. But often two, or sometimes
more coats, may be needed to get the solid, even tone we’re after. These are done, but where I have
chosen a very dark colour for the cloth, I’m going to add a quick, light drybrush
just to pick out a few highlights such as the crease of the trousers. To do that, I’m using a large, flat brush and a light tone. I get some paint on my brush,
then wipe most of it off. A quick brush on the back of my hand
shows me how much remains. Then I lightly dust the area I want to highlight. Drybrushing can result in
a slightly rough and chalky finish, but the Quickshade will do a nice job
of smoothing the highlights out. Now these zombies have a nice, clean, solid base coat, they’re ready for the Quickshade. Before applying the Quickshade, we need to ensure we have some white spirit ready
to clean our brush afterwards. There’s nothing wrong with keeping a jar to hand
and reusing it multiple times. It’s important to give the Quickshade
a good shake before applying as it tends to separate when left for a period of time becoming more thin and watery near the surface. Here, you can see how thick
and gloopy it normally looks. Some people literally dip
the miniature into the Quickshade, but I prefer to apply it with an old brush. All we’re looking for here initially is to ensure
that we achieve total coverage of the figure, as any untouched areas will look
very out of place once it’s dry. Straight away, we can see how
quickly it darkens the recesses, and how smoothly it shades
up to the lighter, raised areas. However, we can also see that
it pulls heavily in the recessed areas, smothering details wherever it does so. This is particularly noticeable
in places like the eye sockets. Furthermore, the Quickshade will
spend the next five minutes or so slowly sliding over the surface of the miniature, further collecting in pools wherever it can. What we need to do therefore,
is repeatedly mop up the Quickshade from any nooks or areas
where we don’t want it to collect. Although the Quickshade method
is a much faster way to work than shading all those shadows
and highlights ourselves, using layers, it isn’t something you can just slap on
and expect instant miracles from. We have to use a creative eye and tell it where we do and don’t want it to gather. I will typically spend far more time
removing excess Quickshade than it takes to actually apply. I might cover two or three figures initially, then go back to the first,
to remove any unwanted Quickshade. I will check the figure three or four times intermittently, mopping up unwanted Quickshade until I’m satisfied that it’s no longer
collecting where I don’t want it, and I’m happy with the overall look. These are all now shaded, but have
an unpleasantly glossy finish. We’re going to fix that with a matte
varnish spray once the quick shade is dry, which means we wait 24 hours. There are several brands of matte varnish spray, and I’m using Testors Dullcote. A quick blast front, back, and sides maybe… And once dry, we can see we’ve
lost that unnaturally glossy finish, and now we can really appreciate what a good
job the Quickshade has done shading our zombies. These are now ready for some finishing touches. The first thing I like to do at this stage,
is give the zombies some glowing eyes. I’m going to give my zombies very pale blue eyes so will be using white,
mixed with just a little light blue. Notice I’m using an old brush to mix the paints, so I don’t ruin the brushes I use to actually paint with. With my size 10/0 brush, and with both hands resting
on a surface to keep them steady, I carefully apply a small dab to pick out the eyes. Some figures have fairly prominent
eyes that are easy to highlight. Whilst others, you more or less have
to guess where they should be. Once painted though, the eyes really
help to give a focal point for the figure and I feel give the zombie much more presence. when things go wrong, like they do here, one way to correct the mistake
is to quickly grab a fresh brush and wash the paint off with some water
before it has a chance to dry. Another, even easier fix for a difficult eye, and for any other mistakes that may
have been made along the way, is to simply cover it with blood. And that’s, what we’re going to do next. There are many blood recipes out there. Here is my current favourite: I’m using this Tamiya Clear Red paint, which has a suitably thick
consistency and glossy finish. It is quite toxic however, so do make sure
you wash your hands after using it. A less toxic and easier alternative
might be to use Citadel’s new technical paint – Blood for the Blood God. I personally prefer the hue and
consistency of the Tamiya recipe, but the difference between them is perhaps one
that only the true blood connoisseur will notice. And I think the Citadel blood paint is a fine alternative
that most painters would be happy with. Out of the bottle, the Tamiya red is a little too bright, so I like to mix it with a little black
and some dark brown. As mentioned previously, it makes
sense to leave the blood till last as it’s a very convenient way to cover
up any mistakes made along the way. Here, for example, I noticed for some reason
I haven’t shaded the sleeve on this zombie’s left arm, so that’s the first place I’m going
to go to town with some blood. Likewise, I’m not too happy
with the eyes on this zombie, so I’m going to give him the Governor Treatment. Notice, I’m using an old brush,
as I’m applying it in a fairly rough manner. It’s easy to go over the top with the blood, so it’s worth remembering that sometimes less is more. In the end, it’s another great way to introduce variety, which is particularly important when you
have many of the same sculpts on the table. So I might go over the top on one zombie, but leave another without any blood on at all. Finally, we need to do something about the base. Usually, I would add some texture and paint them. And for Zombicide, a simple road
grey colour would probably be fine. But I prefer to remove the stand completely and replace them with these clear
bases by Litko Game Accessories. These are 1.5 mm thick and 25 mm in diameter. This not only looks classy, but allows the board that the game plays out on
to be seen beneath the stand. All we do, is take a sharp craft knife
and slice through the soles of the feet, always cutting downwards, away from our fingers. Then we just need to apply a small
dab of super glue to each foot and wipe away the excess, to ensure
we’re left with just a thin layer of glue. This will prevent it from misting
the clear plastic when it makes contact. I carefully lower the figure onto the stand
and hold it in place for a moment – and it’s done. Rebasing the figures in this way
might not be for everyone as the figures are more delicate as a result, and it doesn’t take too much mishandling,
or a drop, for them to come off the stand. For me however, it’s a price worth paying. And here is the finished result. Which means that these are
ready to join the rest of the horde. This brings our tutorial to an end. Thank you so much for watching. I hope it proves useful, especially
to those just starting out in the hobby. I would welcome any feedback or questions
in the comments section below. Happy painting!

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