Supra Complete Teardown and Strip

Hi – I’m Stephan Papadakis with Papadakis Racing and we’re here at our race shop in Carson, California, where we’re taking
this 2020 Toyota Supra and turning it to our new Formula Drift competition
car. We’ve only got three months before the
first event of the Formula Drift season, so the pressure is really on to get
the car finished… because that event is happening with or without us. We’ve already made a thousand horsepower with the factory engine, and I’ll link to those videos in the description down below. We actually profile the whole
build of that engine. For now, let’s get started on the teardown. we want to get the entire car stripped all the way to the bare metal. We do that to learn about how Toyota engineers designed the car and how we may improve on it for our
competition spec. And then we also want to start with just a bare canvas. So, as we’re pulling the whole car apart, we’ve got a couple of piles we’re gonna make. We’re gonna make a pile of parts that we’re gonna continue to use, the ones that we may use, and another set of parts that we are not gonna use. All of the cooling system on this car is up front and we’re actually gonna rearrange it and put the radiator probably in the rear of the car. We’re not gonna use the factory transmission for the build. We’re actually gonna use a 4-speed dog box — a full Racing transmission that we’ll get to in a future episode. Once we were done with getting all the powertrain out of the car, we parked it in its spot
that is gonna sit for the next few weeks. Then we got it up really high with these jack stands. They’re a little bit taller than normal jack stands and that way we can get under it, as well. Believe it or not, most of the time that we spent on stripping the car down is all the small interior pieces all the little air bags
and all these interesting little plugs. Wwe don’t really have instructions on how
to take it apart so a lot of the time we’re actually just taking pliers or
screwdrivers or whatever and just prying these parts off because we know that we’re not gonna reuse them. Snd I know it’s a little sad to see all these brand new components being cut and ruined and thrown away, but at the end of the day we just built competition cars. For the sake of efficiency, we just need to get these things out of there. We won’t use the factory steering wheel so we’re gonna set that aside but we may use the steering column. From the steering column, and the
steering shaft, it goes down into the rack and pinion. Factory, this car
uses an electric rack and pinion so there’s no hydraulic and all the assist
comes from electric power. We will reuse the dash but we’re not going to use the big aluminum brace underneath it. We’re actually not going to install the
heating and air conditioning back into the car. In these competition cars, we
just want to keep what is going to make the car faster and more competitive
on the track and sometimes the driver will have to deal with a little bit
hotter cabin for the sake of performance… So, sorry Fredric Aasbo, it’s gonna be pretty hot in the car when you’re running it. Now that we’ve got the dash off you can see underneath and all the magic that happens for your air conditioning the
heater and all the creature comforts in a car those are all tucked under the
dash and a lot of the time really hard to get to. We realized it would take
hours to get everything out perfectly, but we’re not reusing any of
these systems so we thought it’d be more efficient let’s just cut some of the
stock harnesses and the stuff that we know we’re not gonna use and then we set that stuff aside and save time on the teardown. The car had to have at least 40
pounds of wiring in it and we’re gonna build our own competition wiring harness
for the car with only the wires we need. The door is relatively straightforward
to pull off, all of the wiring was just one plug and once we pulled a couple of
screws out for the hinge, we were able to just lift the door up
with a couple of us and pull the whole door off. The front windshield on almost every car is actually glued in with a special urethane and it takes some special tools to remove it without breaking the glass. So we had a windshield pro come in and he’s got this really interesting tool. He feeds a cable between the windshield and the chassis, pushing through the urethane. He attaches one side of the cable to a suction cup outside the windshield and
then the other side of the cable goes on like a fishing real-looking thing that
he powers with his electric drill and then starts pulling the cable, which goes
around the whole windshield cutting the urethane and making the windshield pop
off without breaking anything. The windshield is one of those parts that we do want to reuse. We are allowed to use Lexan, but we feel that the driver has better visibility through the glass than through lexan. Before we pull all the brakes off, we drained all of the fluid and the way we got all the brake fluid
out is this tool that uses vacuum to pull and suck all the brake fluid
out of the system. That way, when we go to pull the lines off, the fluid isn’t dripping everywhere and making a big mess. The way the brakes work on most of
these cars is when you push on the brake pedal it puts pressure on the fluid
system through this master cylinder. Fluid from those lines go through the
A-B-S (the anti-lock braking system), which is this box. And then you can see
where there’s four lines that come out of the top of it. Each one of those is
for one of the four wheels. We’re actually not gonna use any of the
anti-lock braking. We want the driver to be able to lock up the brakes when he
wants. We’re gonna replace a lot of these body components with a wider carbon-fiber piece. What’s quite unique on this Supra is that the fender is like super small, because the hood is actually half of
the fender. We noticed right away how lightweight a lot of the components are, and how much aluminum they used everywhere in order to keep the weight
down. That’s one of the things that makes a real sports car is having all these lightweight components. It adds to the street performance and it
also helps us because we want a lightweight car: the lighter the
car, the better the power-to-weight ratio. And actually a lighter weight car also helps fuel economy, so you gain in almost every category. We’re gonna change out the shocks and the struts for a competition set when we finally do the
assembly, but we want to use some of the factory components for mock up so this
is an old-school trick to get the spring off of the strut assembly while it’s still compressed when you don’t have a spring tool Don’t try this at home. What I do take an impact and set it against a fence, and then I unscrew the top nut and let
the spring sort of shoot the strut off. It works, but… Seriously, don’t try this at home. The whole front subframe, which is where the front suspension bolts to and actually the engine bolts too as well, is all
aluminum. Not only is it lightweight, but we can fabricate and change it as needed
for our competition spec because we can weld directly onto this aluminum
crossmember. These assemblies are the full rear suspension including the axles, and the brakes. We felt it was more efficient to just unbolt these as complete units from the vehicle instead of all of their individual parts. and then when we go to modify that part of the car, we can disassemble it at that point and really spend time analyzing all the rear suspension. But for now, we’re just trying to get the whole car apart. This is the rear crossmember, where all the rear suspension bolts up. We’re gonna reuse
this but it’ll be modified for our purpose. This is the rear end, sometimes called the differential, and it’s what takes the power from the
engine and turns at 90 degrees to go out to both of the rear wheels.
This one is active and electronic so the computer can actually control how much
slip there is between the left and the right wheels. The housing for the rear end is made out of steel but the rear cover is made of aluminum, and if you
look at the bottom you can see where the cooling fins are located. This is the rear trunk or the hatch or sometimes called the deck lid of the car. We just unbolt it, remove the wiring and set it aside. And again here you can see
another aluminum component… This is the rear crash support and you can see the way that Sean removes it how lightweight it is. So now that we have all the parts
removed from the chassis, we need to get the car down to the chemical bath — the
place that strips all of the undercoating and paint and
everything off of it. That’s always a bit of a challenge because there’s no more
wheels in the car, so we found the best way has been to use a forklift and we’ve
got these extended forks to get under the car. We wanted to keep the project
pretty secret but we figured the car was stripped down so much that people
wouldn’t know what it was driving down the freeway on the trailer. In order to get all of the paint and undercoating off of the chassis, they put the car in this big chemical bath for a few days. Then when they pull it out, they’ll use pressure washers and even some hand scrapers to get all the small bits off. They’ll do this process a couple of times before they can get everything down to the bare metal Again, that way we can weld to the chassis and remove all the extra weight
from the undercoating. When we got it back to the shop was one of those moments where you realize… Oh my god. We’ve just taken a brand new car, stripped it down to the bare metal, and we have to build SO much up again to
turn it back into a useable car. All right: thanks for watching and I hope you liked it. If you did, please hit the “Like” button In the next videos, we’re gonna
show all the changes we’re making to the car, the full assembly of the car, and
then the first track day with it. So, if you want to see those and be
notified, please consider subscribing. Thanks for watching, and I’ll see you in the next video.

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